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WINGS

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The Daring Dream of Personal Flight

Oringal test by Nancy Shute; Executive summary by darmansjah


ON THE BRINK Australian Jim Mitchell leaps off Ottawa Peak on Canada’s Baffin Island while wearing a wing suit in April 2010. He died weeks later when a jump from a nearby mountain went tragically awry.

Perched on the edge of a cold, windswept dune in North Carolina, I was about to fulfill a dream I shared with Leonardo da Vinci: To fly. The Renaissance genius spent years deciphering the flight of birds an devising personal flying machines. On his deathbed in 1519, Leonardo said one of his regrets was that he had never flown. Five hundred years of innovation since then had produced the hang glider I held above my head, simple and safe enough to be offered as a tourist entertainment. But despite those centuries of adventure and experimentation, personal flight-the ability to bound from Earth like a skylark, swoop like a falcon, and dart as blithely as a hummingbird-remains elusive.

Our human longing to mimic birds has often proved painful. Greek mythology mourns the melted dreams of Icarus. Arab poetry relates a crushing crash by ninth-century inventor Abbas ibn Firnas. Medieval British monk Eilmer became lame after leaping from an abbey on homemade wings. But as technology takes off, the dream of personal flight seems closer than ever.

1480’S The “aerial screw” one of several flying devices sketched by Leonardo da Vinci, hints at the whirling motion of the modern helicopter.

1783 A taffeta hot-air balloon carries two men over Paris. Its inventors were said to be inspired by paper-or underwear-floating in a fire’s updraft.

1853 Sir George Cayley, 79m sees his “governable parachute” briefly glide through what the calls “an uninterrupted navigable ocean that comes to…every man’s door”-the sky.

1891-1896 To prove hang gliders are more than a passing fancy. German engineer Otto Lilienthal flies his own versions some 2,000 times before a fatal fall.

1900-1911 The Wright brothers pioneer the airplane and develop better gliders. Orville’s 1911 model soars nearly ten minutes, the longest unpowered flight yet.

That’s not for lack of trying. Many lives have been lost and fortunes squandered pursuing the dream of flight, and even today scientists, inventors, and adventures persist in the quest.

Leonardo drew hundreds of images of birds on the wing, trying to decode their secrets, and drafted meticulous plans for flying machines not unlike today’s gliders and helicopters. But he never figured out the physics of flight. It took more than 300 years and many more failed experiments until Sir George Cayley, a British engineer, determined that flight required lift, propulsion, and control. He built a glider with a curved wing to generate lift. Then he ordered his coachman into it and had farm workers pull it down a slope until it gained enough speed to fly. Control, alas, was lacking. The craft crashed after flying a few hundred yards. The coachman survived, but reportedly was not amused.

My students hang glider was almost as low concept as Cayley’s, and though I knew it could fly, control clearly remains an issue. The instructors at Kitty Hawk Kites, at Kill Devil Hills a couple of miles from where the Wright brothers flew the first powered aircraft in 1903’s, explained that piloting requires just five simple motions: lean left or right to turn; push the bar up to land. But students in my class still augered into the sand. One fell hard enough to break the glider’s sturdy aluminum strut. That made me more determined to succeed.

I have always loved to fly, even in lumbering jumbo jets. When the Kitty Hawk Kites school quoted Leonardo as saying, “for once you have tasted flight, you will walk the Earth with your eyes turned skywards,” I sighed in recognition.
Some years back I learned to fly a single engine plane, but flying a small plane is about as thrilling as sitting at a card table. I hoped hang gliding would deliver the unencumbered essence of flight. It certainly delivered the fear. My grip on the control bar was painfully tight as I ran down the lip of the dune. Suddenly I was running in thin air. Flying! After a few seconds the instructors shouted “Flare!” I pushed the control bar over my head and landed, unsteady but on my feet-then headed back uphill. I wanted to feel again that strange, lovely moment aloft.

A glider wing is an efficient way to generate lift, but my seconds-long flight proved that running off a dune doesn’t generate much speed.  Glider flight is a controlled descent; pilots gain altitude only if they catch rising air and ride it aloft. Birds don’t have that problem; they fly with great efficiency and more precision than any aircraft. Sooty shearwaters log almost 40,000 miles migrating from New Zealand to Alaska and back, while ruby-throated hummingbirds can fly 20 hours without stop migrating across the Gulf of Mexico. Scientists still struggle to understand the physiology of avian flight, but light bones and an intricate collaboration among chest and wing muscles appear essential. A hummmingbird’s chest muscles, it would stick out like a 55-gallon drum,” he says. “It would be freakin’ enormous”

Legend has it Icarus fell from the sky because hubris led him too close to the sun, melting the wax that held the feathers on his wings. More likely, his arms just gave out. Uncounted numbers of “birdmen” had died  over the centuries after leaping from tower or cliff not realizing they could never flap homemade wings hard or fast enough to stay aloft. Their modern heirs, BASE jumpers, leap from buildings, cliffs, and bridges, plunge for a few exhilarating moments, then throw out a parachute to slow their fall. Some don wing suits, with baffled fabric wings that generate enough lift to propel the wearer forward at up to 160 miles an hour while falling. J.T. Holmes of Squaw Valley, California, who has made about a thousand wing-suit jumps, says, “It’s as close as human beings can get to flying like a bird.” It’s also extraordinary dangerous: About 12 BASE jumpers die each year. Hitting the mountain while free-falling or after the parachute deploys is a common cause.

The best success in purely human-powered flight came in 1988, when the Daedalus, a light weight aircraft built by a team at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, flew 71,5 miles from the Greek Island of Crete to Santorini. The 69-pound craft, pedaled by a Greek Olympic cyclist, got caught in turbulence as it approached the beach at Santorini. It crashed in the sea, a few yards from the shore.

1935 spreading homemade canvas wings at 10,000 feet, “Bird-man” Clem Sohn rides the wind for 75 seconds. Two years later, a horrified crowd sees the stunt artist’s parachute fail.

1948 aerospace engineer Francis Rogallo and his wife invent the flexible “paraglider” wing as a sort of parachute for space capsules. Human fliers latch on to it.

1955 On the Hiller Flying Platform, a pilot stands atop twin fans and steers by leaning. It proves too unwieldy for military use.

1956  When the U.S. Army orders a dozen De Lackner Aerocycles, one journalist envisions a “cavalry on modern sky-bustling steeds.” Test pilots deem the open-rotor craft unsafe.

1961 Bell engineer Harold Graham straps on a hydrogen peroxide fueled Rocket Belt and flies for 13 seconds.

1960s Modern hang gliding is born as pilots attach flight frames to the Rogallo flexible wing.

1970-1983 The jet-powered Williams Aerial Systems Platform flies, but flops in the military market. Years later, the New York Timescalls it “a flying garbage can.”

To solve such problems, Wilbur and Orville Wright had fitted a motor and propeller on a glider. That clanking, smoky machine may have ushered in modern aviation but apparently delivered little joy. The Wirghts also returned to flying unpowered gliders off dunes. But powered aviation did offer hope of a personal aircraft that could soar into the air like a bird, something my glider could not do. enter the rocket men.

After World War II, the American military funded a parade of personal-flight experiments, none of which fulfilled the mission of safe, maneuverable, or stealthy flight. Consider rocket belts the wearer of the belt would fly less than a minute because of limits on the fuel a person can carry. Plus, the device is expensive, noisy, and notoriously  difficult to control. Just ask Bill Suitor, his neighbor Wendell Moore, a Bell Aerospace engineer, needed an average guy to test the Rocket Belt, which he was developing for the U.S. Army in the early 1960x, and recruited 19-year-old Suitor. Now 66, Suitor has flown more than 1,300 times. “Controlling the rockets’ power was the biggest challenge,” he says. “It’s like a fire-breathing dragon.”

Inventors continue to try to bring the comic book fantasy of personal jet flight to life, and Yves Rossy has come closest. This Swiss pilot flings himself out of an aircraft wearing a six-foot-wide carbon-fiber wing of his own invention, powered by four tiny jet engines. In May, Rossy leaped from a helicopter above the Grand Canyon and flew eight minutes before parachuting to Earth. The jets give him powered ascent and the oomph to do loop. That freedom doesn’t come easy; it took Rossy years to master his tiny craft. “I steer myself in space with only my body,” he explains. “To go left, I turn my shoulders left, and that’s it!” He says it’s like parachuting with a wing suit, whose panels between the body and limbs slow a skydiver’s fall, but with more liberty. “It’s awesome, it’s great, it’s fantastic!”

You won’t catch me jumping out of a plane with a wing strapped to my back. But I yearn for even a small measure of Rossy’s joie de vol. after five runs off the Outer Banks dune last April, I was getting closer-able to fly into the wind, then floating gently down onto my feet. It was as if the glider wasn’t there.

I wanted more. Sandra Vernon, a 47-years-old mother of three I my class on the dune, egged me on. She’d been flying towed tandem flights, pulled up to 2,000 feet behind an ultralight. This usually grants a hand glider a good ten-minute flight back down to Earth, even if there are no rising thermals to help keep the craft aloft. “I’m short, I’m chubby, I’m not spry,” Vernon says. “I wish I had been doing this in my 20s. you can’t help but love it.

Challenge accepted, I strapped myself into the harness of a tandem glider with instructor Jon Thompson. He warned that eh moment when the towplane released us would remind me of going over the top of a roller coaster. I’m a coaster fan. This was nothing like that. It felt like falling headfirst off the top of a 2,000-foot-tall bulding. “You can fly now,” Thompson said, genially offering me the controls. “No! I shouted over the wind. In a few moments the glider gained lift and leveled off. My terror waned, and I took control. I banked left, then right-more of a pigeon than a sooty shearwater but flying all the same.

In pursuit of flight, I’m also keeping my eye on the Puffin, a “personal air vehicle” that became an Internet sensation when NASA unveiled it in 2010. Big advances in superefficient electric motors and control systems, which let the air craft feel the intention of the pilot, may make it possible to fly a one-person craft like this safely without typical pilot training. “We are trying to create a horse-and-rider kind of experience,” says Mark Moore, a NASA aerospace engineer who developed the prototype. “A horse is an intelligent vehicle, but it’s only intelligent than the horse could ever discern.”

1977 A British prize set up in 1959 for the first human-powered plane is finally caimed by the Gossamer Condor, which has Mylar wings and a furiously pedaling pilot.

1980s French skydiver Patrick de Gayardon soars in his batlike nylon wing suit. Hed dies testing a new model in 1998.

2000 U.S. defense grants begin funding a program to develop a flying “exoskeleton.” The idea is to create a suit that soldiers can wear to take off and land vertically, with a propeller fan over each shoulder.

2006 Seeking the power of a plane without its confines, Swiss pilot Yves Rossy puts jet engines and carbon-fiber wings on his own body.

2008 Martin Aircraft tests its fan-powered “Jetpack” and says it plans to sell a recreational model. Flight time : 30 minutes Price: $100,000.

2010 NASA’s Puffin concept a 300-pound electric “flying suit,” would stand on its stubby tail for takeoff, then level off to cruise on wings.

The Puffin may never fly, but other inventors are tinkering. JoeBen Bevirt, an entrepreneur in Santa Cruz, California, has already flown a small scale prototype of his version of a flying car. He envisions it as a sleek, red plane with eight electric motors. It would take off and land vertically and fly a hundred miles in an hour, zooming him to a San Francisco meeting in half the time it takes in his Prius. “I want one,” he says flatly. Me too.


Enjoy All The Wonders of KOMODO with an extended stay at the first 5-star resort on Flores Island

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The much anticipated opening of AYANA Komodo Resort, Waecicu Beach and AYANA Lako di’a take places this September on the stunning island of Flores.

As the excitement around the grand opening grows, AYANA has launched an unmissable limited time offer!

Whether guests are lured by the pristine aqua waters to sample some of the world’s finest dive spots or attracted to the surreal landscapes of Padar Island, rushing Cunca Rami waterfall, or eager to visit the world’s oldest species of lizard – the famous Komodo dragon, Komodo is labyrinth of on and off-land adventures. The magical archipelago is a must visit destination and from September 15, 2018, guests can experience alla the wonders of Komodo from AYANA’s new five-star luxury resort AYANA Komodo Resort, Waecicu Beach or from the decks of the group’s first 9-bedroom luxury phinisi, AYANA Lako di’a.

To celebrate the grand opening, and to ensure there is plenty of time to take in all the islnads have to offer, guests can now book 2 nights and get 1 extra night free, or book 4 nights and receive 2 extra nights free at AYANA Komodo Resort, Waecicu Beach.

With additional nights, plus 20% pre-opening discount and complimentary 2-way airport transfer, there are plenty of perks to booking your dream holiday early. Families can also enjoy all the resort has to offer with connecting rooms at 50% off, children’s pool, kid’s club, and plenty of child-friendly activities.


For those tempted by the elite experience of AYANA Lako di’a, guest can sail across the island’s aquatic shores from one of the Phinisi’s 9-luxury cabins. Departing every Monday, passengers can board for a one, two or three-night voyage of their dreams. This once-in-a lifetime experience hails a new standard of travel.

Too book your stay at  AYANA Komodo Resort, Waecicu Beach and AYANA Lako di’a visit ayanakomodo.com


Soothing forest ambiance in Mount Halimun Salak

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A number of habitats of endangered species can still be found in indonesia thanks partly to the large tropical forests the country possesses, which local and international eco-conscious travelers can enjoy.

Currently, Indonesia has 110 million hectares of protected tropical forests of the second largest area in the world after Brazil.

Of the 110 million ha, 18.7 million are conservation areas.

“These include the mount Halimun Salak National Park (TNGHS) in Bogor, West Java,” said David Makes, head of the Ecotourism Development Acceleration Team (TPPE).

David said the TNGHS, managed by the Balai Taman nasional Gunung Halimun Salak (BTNGHS) under the supervision of Environment and Forestry Ministry, is home to habitats for several endangered species, such as the Java hawk-eagle, Javan Owa and Kukang,” he said.

“Developing the TNGHS into a nature-based ecotourism destination is an important step to enrich ecotourism products on offer in Indonesia, which at the end of the day can boost domestic and foreign tourist arrivals,” he said.

The TNGHS has incredible ecotourism potential, providing a rare opportunity for visitors or travelers to savor the soothing forest ambiance, with green trees, cool and clean air, not far from the hustle bustle of Jakarta.

It’s a three-to five-hour drive to reach the Mount Halimun National Park from the capital. Compared to other national parks, the TNGHS is relatively easily accessible by four-wheeled vehicles, said Head of the BTNGHS.

According to Awen, the park, which covers an area of 87,000 ha, was not recognized until 2003 when the areas that were developed into an ecotourism destination were expanded to Mount Salak, Bogor regency, West Java.

Initially, in 1997 when the TNGHS opened its door to the public as an ecotourism destination, tourism activities were centralized in the Cikaniki area and Malasari village, he said.

With the expanded tourism areas, the TNGHS offers more tourist destination, some of which were managed directly by the park and some others by engaging local communities, according to Awen.

Things to do, which are somewhat adventurous in nature, include camping or glamping, trekking, or experiencing the authentic kampong life and culture in the area.

Gunung Bunder is an ideal site for camping or glamping.

“There are number of waterfalls, locally known as curug, spread across the area,” he said.

In Curug Nangka, visitors can be treated to the sight of clear water flowing along the river while savoring the cool, clean and fresh air.

For those curious about endangered species in the TNGHS, there is the Javan Hawk-Eagle Sanctuary Center, where you can spot javan eagles.

In cikanki, there is a canopy bridge, popularity known as a canopy trail or a hanging bridge, which is also another attraction, Awen said.

The 125-m-long and 25-m-high canopy is located about 200m from Cikanki Research Station. On the canopy, visitors can be treated to awesome sights of the forest from above.

Head of Tourism of ministry regional promotion, said that more attractions needed to be developed in TNGHS to lure visitors, One example he cited was holding Hindu-related ceremonies, given that there are many pura (Hindu’s temples) in the area around the foot of Mount Salak.

According to Awen, a national park can be defined as nature conservation area that has its original ecosystem, managed by a zoning system and can be utilized fort the interest of education, sciencee, supporting culture, culture, recreation adn ecotourism”.

Three principle are used to manage the TNGHS, namely protecting the intactness of the area, preserving the ecosystem of the flora and fauna and utilizing natural resources in a sustainable manner in parallel with the government’s policy for national parks, he said.

Efforts are now under way to drive local communities to be more actively involved in developing and operating the TNGHS areas in a sustainable manner under a partnership scheme.


Apart from the importance of the strengthened legality of the TNGHS to allow for professional management of the park, efforts should also be made to continue to promote biodiversity for research and science development, carbon absorption potential in relation with global climate change and eco and cultural tourism potentials at an international level, according to Awen.

“We’ll continue to develop ecotourism activities and use the most recent means to promote the TNGHS without ignoring the required attention to conservation aspects of the TNGHS as a national park areas,” he said.

Wawan emphasized the importance of good coordination among the relevant stakeholders, such as the central government, the local administration, academics, local communities and NGOs to develop ecotourism in TNGHS.

“Good coordination will create joint commitment, which will help to achieve the goal,” he said.
 Try and go 15 minutes without using, interacting with or even touching a gadget. Chances are your texting fingers will be itching before the dawn of the third minute. Is this a good thing? It’s debatable. But, with so many shiny new devices aiming to make our lives easier, more efficient and a hell of a lot more entertaining, even the most curmudgeonly Luddite would have trouble denying a serious case of tech lust.


A Seaside indulgence

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The island’s beach clubs give vationers another good reason to bask under the sun – in style and with a lot of fun
EVEN THE MOST enthusiastic vactioners will experience this inevitable feeling at a certain point in theier adventure-filled, adrenaline-soaked holiday: a feeling of unbearable longing.

No, I don’t mean a longing for home. After all, who needs to return to home when they are already in such a homey place, such as in a huxurious resort nestled inside a lush forest in Payangan?

It is a longing for doing nothing.


Vacationing is a fast-paced affair nowadays.

Travelers ma yspend their morning jogging along Sanur’s shoreline and having a fullfilling breakfast at the famou Men Weti food stall before hopping into an awaiting car to Ubud.

There they enjoy a sumptuous lunch of the world-famous sucking pig at Ibu Oka, sampling the same dishes that awed the late Antohny Bourdain. Cultural endeavours , ranging fro mbatk class and offering making course to traditional dance lessons and museum tours, will keep them busy throughout the afternoon.

They hen navigate the island’s infamous traffic jams to reqch Canggu or Seminyak, the nexus of the island’s upscale gastronomy and nightlife establishments. They have a fancy dinner, si pa few glasses of wine and either dance the night away or stroll along the deserted beach of Petitenget.

It is an intellectually enriching and physically exhausting day. The following morning, thye awaken and feel that yearning for doing nothing.

They need no worry. The island’s tourist industry has a potent cure for that longing. That cure is the beach club. A rather recent addition to the island’s landscape, beach clubs have grown in number and popularity in the last few years.Combining gorgeous pools, well-stocked bars, charming restaurants with easy access to a long stretch of sandy beach,

these beach clubs are the perfect place for vacationers who wants to linger for hours without doing anything of importance.

Potato Head in Seminyak is one of the clubs that has played a strong role in the rising popularity of beach clubs in the island.

Itw word-class restaurant, infinity pools and series of captivating night events, including the annual Sunny Side Up Electronic Dance Music (EDM) festival, have drawn thousands of vacationers, foreign and domestic alike, into the establishment.

The wall of the gigantic structure that houses the restaurant is lined with hundreds of used wooden windows collected from across the archipelago. It is a visual feast that lures a constant stream of visitors searching for a unique, instagrammable spot.

Potato Head is till one of the best beach clubs on the island. But competition is tight in this business as new players show up and old players elevate their games.

For instance, its next door neighbor, the W Bali-Seminyak, has continuously polished the operation of its beach club. A posh resort famous for its ultra-luxurious rooms and over-the-top Starfish Bloo beachside seafood restaurant, the W-Bali-Seminyak employs a full-time music curator to ensure that quality music is the signature ambience of its Woobar beach club.

SPF, an annual summer party with a mesmerizing fireworks and light show, is Woobar’s answer to Potato Head’s Sunny Side Up. The SPF in late Jully featured Derrick Carter, one of key players of Chichago’s 1990’s house music wave, and Tensnake, a German Dj and producer praised by the The New York Times of having delievered “highly precises modern disco”.

Throughout this August, Woobar has lined up scores of well-know foreign artist, including Livia Dawn and Sebastian Leger, to light up its night.


As the beach clubs in Seminyak and Canggu are locked in the competition to come up with the best pary might ever, a beach club in Ungasan is quietly rising to be one of the must-visit beach clubs on the island.

Karma Kandara, a compound of gorgeous villas and a stunning infinity pool, perches atop a hill overlooking the Indian Ocean. The view is simply breathtaking. Its beach club lies 100 meters below the cliff and can only accessed by a private cable car, giving it an aura of exclusiveness no other beach club on the island offer.

Karma beach club sits literary on a stretch of “private” beach with a magnificent sunset. One can spend the whole day there, sipping cocktails while reading a book under the grass-roofed bamboo pavilion or having a picnic by the beach.


The rising popularity of beach clubs has spurred old players to elevate their games. Conrad Bali, which lies in the island’s water sports capital of Tanjung Benoa, has carried out a complete renovation of its beach club. Its Azure beach club is expected to open its gates in late August.

The rising popularity has also enticed the entrance of new players. One of them is Artotel Beach Club (ABC) in Sanur. Unlike it sisters in Seminyak and Canggu, which put a premium value on large-scale night events. ABC apparently chose a quieter path. After all, Sanur has always been known as the quieter among Bali’s top tourist destinations.

Yet, Sanur offers something that Seminyak, Canggu, and Ungasan cannot match: an active fishermen community. Visitors to ABC, therefore, have an ample opportunity to not only sip cocktails and dip in the pools, but also to converse leisurely with the local fishermen.

For those travelers whose energy has been drained by the prepackaged, fast-paced and commodified tourist attractions, a genuine conversation with the locals might be precisely the thing that can refresh their day. {Words by : I Wayan Juniarta}


Five things to see in Labuan Bajo

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Aerial viePadar Island in between Komodo and Rinca Islands near Labuan Bajo in West Manggarai, East Nusat Tenggara (NTT).

The Komodo Dragon is not the only interesting thing to see when you travel to Labuan Bajo, East Nusa Tenggara (NTT).

The picturesque town on the island of Flores offers the following atttractions worth exploring, as compliey by Kompas.com



Gili Laba

Situated in Komodo National Park, Gili Laba boasts enchanting panoramic, views, as well as breathtaking beaches and underwater scenes.

Do make the effort and time to reach the top of the hill ofr a breathtaking view of the surrounding azure–blue ocean and NTT’s signature hills. Arrive at 3 p.m. and you’ll get the bonus of catching a beautiful sunset.




Batu Cermin Cave

Though some parts of Batu Cermin Cave are man-made, it is still a fascinating place to visit for nature lovers, featuring fossils of sea creatures its walls the prove it once rested at the bottom of the ocean.

The name of the cave itself means “mirror stone,” because its walls reflect sunlight streaming through an opening in the ceiling, creating a mirror-like effect.



Cunca Wulang Waterfall

Take a cooling dip in the fresh-water pool of Cunca Wulang Waterfall, located some 30 kms from Labuan Bajo, and enjoy its lush surroundings.




Cancar Village

Expect to marvel at paddy fields uniquely formed like a giant spiderweb in Cancar village. Travelers usually climb a  hill named Puncak Weol to take a fantastic view.




Kampung Melo

Labuan Bajo also has a tourist destination for culture enthusiasts named Kampung Melo, wehre visitors are welcomed with a traditional Manggarai caci dance.

Kampung Melo also offers a gorgeous view that is perfect for photos.





A Family Outing To Bromo

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 “YOU MUST SEE MOUNT BROMO”. It was 16 years ago and I was traveling around Indonesia for the first time, and there was always some “must-see” destination in each place, whether it was a royal palace, a temple or verdant rice paddies. Well, back then I was single and (relatively) young, so getting up atg stupid 0’clock in the morning, to drive upa sheer mountainside in a jeep and then ride on a horse to see a volcano was something I thought was doable. I booked a tour and arranged to be picked up from my hotel at 3 a.m. the following morning.

Alas, being single and (relatively) young, other thing interposed. I went out for dinner with the intention of getting an early night but met up with some friendly local people, who persuaded me to go for a drink, just one mind, at a nearby nightclub. One thing kind of led to another and by the time reception called me at 3 a.m., I really wasn’t in the mood to go volcano-spotting. Full disclosure, there were quite a few other “must-see” destinations, royal places, temples and verdant rice paddies, that I also missed for similar reasons 16 years ago.


I often regretted that decision, not a lot I admit, but enough to make me think I really should make the trip at a latter date. So here I was all of 16 years later in the pleasantly compact East Java town of Malang, oldern and wiser and with four kids ranging from 7 to 12 years in age, looking forward to our trip to Mt. Bromo.

For someone used to my comfort zone of Jakarta, rarely venturing to anywhere else in Indonesia, other thn driving to Bogor for the afternoon or a long weekend in the expat havens of Bali, I was looking forward to seeing again some of the other bits of Indonesia on a family tour of East Java. The short flight to Malang certainly provides a magnificent view of the Java that for too many of us is simply “fly-over country”. To see the line of dark brooding volcanoes, some extinct, some just waiting the right moment, emerging through the clouds below you is to be reminded of the powerful and ancient forces that have crafted this beautiful land. And to arrive in Malang’s sleepy little airport and wait the best part of 40 minutes to collect you bags from the only plane parked not 100 meters from the baggage carousel is to be reminded why you don’t make the trip so often.

On this trip to Bromo we were being picked up at midnight to drive trhough the ngiht up the mountain to catch the beautiful sunrise fro ma neighboring peak. We calmbered into a Toyota Land Cruiser that had seen better days and began a spine-shaltering ride along rutted tracks and around hairpin bends in the pitch dark in what seemed like some Mad Max-style race with hundreds of other jeeps and  insane motorcyclists to get the peak first.

Dropped off just below Sunrise Point we climbed to the viewing platform, two hours before dawn, and having got our spot, there was little to do other than lie down on the concrete floor and try to get some rest, while latecomers stumbled over us in the dark as the jostled for their spots.

It is cold. Not cool, as in a nice evening in Puncak, it’s an Irish night in February cold.


You need to wear warm gear, a sweater, thick coat, hat, gloves, a scarf too. There are blankets to rent but you don’t want to wrap yourself in one of those for a couple of hours, trust me on this. The cold was made worse by a biting wind that rolled big, marrow-chilling we clouds of fog over and around us. Fog that meant that when the sun did rise there was not much to see. So, after trying to look cheerful for family pictures consisting of shivering children against a pallid background of murky gray mist, we finally gave up and made our way back down.

Then into the Toyoto again to go hurting down the mountain, with the added delight of now being able to see over the sheer sides of the road into the dedly precipes below. We arrived at a dustbowl that appeared to contain the entire production line of Toyota Land Cruisers circa 1996 and in the middle of which was the steaming caldera of Bromo. The caldera is reached on the back of tiny little ponies. The ponies can carry adults but in the interests of animal welfare I skipped the ride and crossed the sand-blown moonscape on foot. I may have looked a little mad, because a vendor offered to sell me a paper surgical mask. For Rp 100.000. I am not that mad.


The climb to the caldera is a steep one, and very crowded. But at the top the sight is ever ybit as stunning as you are led to expect, well it is if you can get through the forest of selfie-sticks to take a look. Don’t seek a moment of intense self enlightment at the wonders of nature and our puny place in the great universe, though, get the pictures you need for social media and move on for the next person to take your place at the railing. You also might want to leave young kids below in safe hands before you begin your ascent, trying to get that perfect instagram picture while keeping an eye on a 7-year-old girl in a san-kicking competition with her brother on the edge of a volcanic crater can be distracting.

Time for a few more photos before we got emphysema from the dust swirling around everywhere and then it was back into the Toyota to contemplate the great wisdom of modern car designers who had the clever idea of making vehicle interiors of soft molded plastic and foam, as we bumped hedas against the roof or backs against angular steel door fittings, before retuning to the hotel for long hot baths in the late afternoon, a mere 18 or so sleepless, bedraggled hours since leaving.

Whisper it, I really should have done this 16 years ago.

[From : The Jakarta Post Travel Edition, August 2018  | Words: Arif Suryobuwono]


TANJUNG LESUNG Seaside Charms

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TANJUNG LESUNG, hailed by the government as one of the country’s new, Bali-like international destinations, centers on Cikarang-based Jababeka & Co’s exclusive enclave of pricey beachfront resorts and the special economic zone currently being developed at Ladda Beach. The absence of any equal competitor and the inconvenience of low-end options outside the enclabe means there are no alternatives to choose from.

While Bali has its recently-erupting Mt.Agung and the West Bali National Park, the Tanjung Lesung enclave is located in close proximity to Krakatoa, a volcanic island formed after a colossal eruption in 1883, and to the pristine Ujung Kulon National Park. Unlike Bali, however, it doesn’t have any strong, distinct cultural or religious heritage of tis won. Although it is situated in Banten, it’s not the home of the Badui, the traditional Bantenese community, whose hilly homeland is, in fact, closer to Jakarta (120 km) than to Tanjung Lesung (194 km). This may explain why it built a Mongolian food and culture center to entertain tourists. This, and some decorative attempts to imitate Bali, indicate the lack of a strong vision for its development.


Located a 3-t0-4-hour’s drive from Jakarta (and a shorter ride by helicopter from Cikarang  if you’re a potential investor), the giant enclave’s top hotels are the Kalicaa Villa Resort and the neighboring, almost two decade-old Tanjugn Lesung Beach Hotel. The later boasts a great family villa, a beautiful beach, a very enjoyable swimming pool, but institutionalized, uninspiring food. Currently, the resorts are awash with visitors when there are sport events or company gatherings. Lower-priced promotional packages also attract guests during the low season. A stay there comes wit hfree access to the Beach Club, where different water sports (such as jet ski and snorkeling) are offered.

Despite the club’s dilapidated look, new structures were being built when I went

[From : The Jakarta Post Travel Edition, August 2018  | Words: ]


Escape to Idylic Belitung Island

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FIRSTgaining popularity after hitting the big screen in 2008’s award-winning ‘The Rainbow Troop’, Belitung island in Bangka-Belitung province is recognized for tis white sandy beaches, Stonehenge-like granite rocks formations and lush environs.

In the past five years, the island’s popularity has increased, as it became known as the birthplace of former Jakarta governor Basuki “Ahok” Tjahaja Purnama.

I had high expectation of Belitung after seeing thousands of pictures on my Instagram feed. I foolishly assumed that the island would be similar to Bali or Lombok. Imagine my surprise when I was greeted by empty asphalt roads and a quiet ambience.

Evry, my local guide-slash-driver, told me that there was only one department store on the island, illustrating how different the island was from my imagination.

During my visit, I discovered that many tourists come to Belitung to see Laskar Pelangi’s shooting locations, Ahok’s childhood home and for island hoping. After spending three days on the island, I had to admit that Belitung’s different envirionment was perfect for the much-needed break I was longing for.

The peaceful morning

 I spent the first day exploring East Belitung regency, which is where Laskar Pelangi was filmed and the Andrea Hirata Literary Museum and Ahok’s childhood home are located.

The next day, I woke up at 7 a.m. As I opened the curtain, I was greeted by sunshine and fresh sea breeze coming through my window. Although, I was staying ner the town center, the BW Suite Belitung hotel in Tanjung pandan had the luxury of ocean view rooms.

I quickly got myself ready and headed down to the loby to fin Evry. He suggested we make a quick stop at Kong Jie Coffee for breakfast.

The coffee shop was packe with people eating traditional breakfast meals, such as nasi gemok (rice and fried fish wrapped in simpur leaves) and banana fritters while enoying a cup of java. Despite being crowded, time seemed to move slower. The cutomers were not in a hurry. They slowly sipped their coffee while chating with friends or playing with their mobile phones.

The atmosphere was so laid-back and it was relaxing to experience it, especially for someone who lives in th city like my self.

I wished I could have spent longer time enjoying the coffee shop. But I had to move on to Tanjung kelayang Beach to rent a boat to island hopping.

Away from reality

I spent almost two hours inside the car. The jorney was smooth, as the asphalt road was empty. Prior to arriving at our destination, I saw housed that had similar architecture and were surrounded by huge yards. I rarely sawa people in front of the houses. Some houses had their doors left wide open ,showing how safe the area was.

Travel tips

1.       Paying by credit or debit card could be considered safer and more convenient than carrying cash.

2.       Save time and money; when traveling out of country, paying by card in local currency can offer a competitive exchange rate.

3.       Make two copiex of important travel documents, including your passport, in case of emergency.

4.       Notify your band card issuer about your travel plans to help monitor for fraud.

5.       Set alerts so you can keep track of spending on your phone.

6.       Data roaming charges can skyrocket while abroad so set up your cellphone to avoid international dat roaming or ensure you have an international plan.

7.       Keep a list of important contacts in case your phone is lost or stolen.

8.       Check out fun local events such as festivals and concerts in the city you’re visiting.

As I arrived at Tanjung Kelayang Beach, I could again smell the fresh air. After paying Rp 400.000 to rent a boat, I changed my clothes and climbed into the speedboat.

The first five minutes were heavenly. The warm sea breeze touched my face and the wind blew through my hair. I could hear the sound of crashing waves while enjoying the sight of the celar blue sky and crystal-clear water.

“This is Batu Garuda,” said Evy, waking me from my daydream. He pointed to a giant rock formation and said, “You can see the shape resembles the Garuda bird.”

“You cannot go on the rocks,” said Evry, asking me to take a picture from the boat.

I started to recognize the shape and took some pictures.

We then move to Batu Berlayar Island. The small island is filled with Stonehenge like rock formations that are icons of Belitung. Here, I finally saw how popular Belitung has become as a tourist destination. The ilse was filled with visitors trying to take nice pictures. It took me a while to find a quiet spot. I got carried away and began posing like an Instagram influencer.

 After feeling satisfied, we went to our next destination, Lengkuas Island. The island is known for its lighthouse, which was built in 1882. Visitors can climbup to third level to take in the view of the turquoise below.

I felt disappointed because I could not go to the top to see a bird’s eye view of the island. But the good news was, Evry said, I could go snorkeling off the eastern and western shores of Lengkuas Island.

“We should buy biscuits,” Evry said, explaining that we could feed the fish while snorkeling.

Although the corals were not as colorful as the ones in Komodo Island or Raja Ampat, snorkeling in Belitung was not a disappointment. Once I entered the water, holding the biscuits, I was instantly surrounded by fish.

I spent around 20 minutes feeding the fish and enjoying the underwater scenery. Then I decided it was time to move on to the next stop.

The boat brought me to Pasir Island. Although it is called an island, Pasir Island is actually a sandbar that is onely visible during low tide. If you lucky, you might see large pnkish starfish. I felt like I was staying in the middle of the ocean.

As I climbed back on the boat, Every said that our next stop would be special, as it was quieter than Lengkuas and Batu Layar Islands.

He was not llying. There were only a few people on Kelayang Island. It was clearly the perfect beach for sunbathing.


It was so peaceful and I felt like I was on a private beach. However, the weather started getting warmer, so it was time for Gede Kepayang Island comes with changing rooms, a restaurant and power stations. However, visitors need to pay Rp 20.000 per person to enjoy the facililities.

The restaurant serves freshly caught fish grilled with local spices along with free-flow of coffee and tea. As I enjoyed the udang saus Padang (prawns in spicy sauce), I grabbed my mobile phone and discovered that I had been busy exploring the islands for around for hours.

It was the first time I had checked WhatsApp that day. I felt so happy to be able to escape from my normal routine for a while [Source : The Jakarta Post magazine |Edittion Jul 2017 | by : Jessica Valentina]



BULL RUN

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Karapan Sapi is a traditional annual event that happens only in Madura

ON A RECENT visit to Bali, I was lucky to see a one-of-a kind event called Karapan Sapi, a bull race that happens in Madura, a small island located across the Madura Strait to the northeast of Java Island, know for this scenic beauty. This traditional sport has been around for several centuries and happens at the district level, regency level and finally to the residence level, with the finals, wehre the competitors vie for the President Cup in the city of Pamekasan. The race typically happens  during the months of July to October.

History calling

The origins of this race are traced to Sapudi Island in Madura, and there are two interesting stories behind its history. One school of thought believes that the race was used by ulema, while another says this race was created by an important man from Sapudi Island to make the soil fertile by plowing.

Prince Kantadur from the local kingdom of Sumenep in the 13th century also helped popularize the race, and in the 1930s. Dutch rulers did their bit to organize and promote the sport across the East Java province. Interestingly, not all bulls make the cut to quality to be race ready.

It is said that the race bulls are the ones whose chest shape narrows from the upper area t othe lower area, have humped necks, short horns and a big strong body with long back, tight nails and along tail. Their daily diet includes, a mix of herbs, honey and eggs, which increases by several portions before a race. And yes, bulls ar also fiven a relaxing massage as well so that they can perform at top speed.

Sporty vibes

When I arrived at the venue, which happens to be a large open field fenced all around, there was a palpable undercurrent of exicitement. Row of chairs had been arranged at one end with a lot of local food – boiled peanuts, sweet potatoes and more. The racing event is evidently popular with locals and is quite a unique experience for tourists, making this a win-win for all sides.

For local especially, this event has prestige value because the winning bull owner stands to gain much socially and financially. Before the race begins, each team parades their bulls to the liting tunes of Madura’s traditional instrument, saronen, and local school children performing the traditional percot (whip) dance.

The participating bulls themselves are also given a makeover with rich clothing, flowery ribbons and other decorations as part of the parade. Just before the race begins, these are exchanged for more practical gear.

The race

Each team comprises a tukang ambeng (a person who releases the harness), a tukang gubra (a person to shout from the side of the race track), a tukang nyandak (a person to stop the ubll at the finish line) and a tukang tanja (a person to lead the bull after the race).

The race involves a pair of bulls attached to a standing wooden cart, on which a jockey stands to steer the bulls through the race. The jockeys are usually young boys who control the speed of the bull, locally called tukang tongko. The 100-meter-long race track usually takes 10 to 15 second to complete amidst the onlocker’s wild cheers.

One the flag drops, the jockey starts poking the bulls with a sharpened bamboo and tries to simultaneously keep his balance. The bull whose forelegs cross the finish line first wins the race, which has a series of elimination heats. So the next time you are in Madura, be sure to check out Karapan Sapi.


Haven of Exotic Beaches

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Gunung Kidul, located in the southeastern part of Yogyakarta, has long been known as a haven for tourists in search of beaches, which span over 70 kms, from the west to the east, along its southern coastline.
Beaches in Gunung Kidul offer more than just breathtaking views. Visitors can also relax by snorkeling, checking out coral reef and decorative fish under clear waters or just playing on the white sand.
“It’s really fun, watching fish swimming here and there under the water. I couldn’t help but try to touch them,” visitor Dian Retnanindyah of Sleman regency said after enjoying snorkeling in Sadranan Beach waters, recently.
Sadranan is among beaches in Gunung Kidul that continue to lure travelers. Along with Ngandong and Slili beaches, Sadranan is suitable for snorkeling and rowing.
Other beaches in the area have their own charms and appeal, serving as a magnet for travelers from far and wide.
Baron is also popular among fishermen. As the “entrance gate” to other beaches in the area, visitors can see fishermen returning to shore with their catch, apart from the beautiful scenery of the hills that surround the area.
Visitors can also find and underground spring that directly goes into the sea. People are also welcome to buy fresh fish that can be cooked on site to enjoy right away or to takeaway.
Next to Baron is Kukup, which offers an overlay of white sands and scenery of colorful decorative fish and other sea biota. What makes this beach special is the coral hill with an observation post on top of it where visitors can observe the beauty of the surrounding panorama as well as of offshore activities in the distance.
Long coasaatline
Sepanjang is one of just a few beaches in Gunung Kidul that  has a long coastline. With an overlay of white sand, sports overs will see it as the perfect place to play beach volleyball. Facilities to play so are available on the site.
Drini, which is located next to Sepanjang, is named after the numerous drini trees that grow on the beach. The trees are believed to have to have the capability to get rid of snakes. Fish auctions are also held and an array of culinary treats are available from vendors. Krakal Beach, next to Drini
Also offers an overlay of white sands, where visitors can enjoy sunrise and the scenery of fish and other sea biota during high tide. Sunrise can also be enjoyed from Pok Tunggal Beach.
Other beaches offering beautiful white sands as well as calm and clear waters are connecting Ngrenehan. Nobaran and Nguyahan in Saptosari district. Although one is located next to the other, these three beaches offer different charms.
If in Ngobaran visitors can visit a Hindu temple built on the beach, in Ngrenehan and Nguyahan, visitors can enjoy beautiful panorama, buy fresh fish from vendors, or enjoy various seafood items on offer at food stalls.
Those with a desire to take part in outbound activities can pay a visit to Sundak, where local instructors are on standby. Visitors can also take a dip in the water and choose to just relax on the beach.
Gunung Kidul tourism Agency’s planning subdivision head, Supriyanta, said Gunung Kidul regency was home to beaches, but only 40 had been developed for tourism purposes.

“Of these 40 beaches, 28 have been fully developed, meaning that they already have the required facilities as tourist destinations,” said Supriyanta, adding have among the must-have facilities included parking areas, restrooms, food outlets and souvenir stalls.
Thanks to the development of access roads heading to these beaches, Gunung Kidul has for the last few years been enjoying a steady increase in tourist visits to the regency by up to 400,000 tourists a year.
If in2015 it saw only some 2.2 million tourists, in 2016 it saw 2.6 million of them. It saw a further increase to 3.2 million in 2017, of which some 21,600 were foreign tourists, thus exceeding the target of receiving 2.69 million of tourists the same year.
Supriyanta said the majority tourists visiting Gunung Kidul had chosen beaches as their main destinations, especially those on the central part of the regency’s coastline.
How to go there
To get the beaches, visitors can take different routes from Yogyakarta (Yogyakarta-Pathuk-Wonosari-Baron); from Bantul (Parangtritis-Trowono-Kemadang-Kukup); from Wonogiri (Pracimantoro-Baran Rongkop-Jerukwudel-Jepitu-Wediombo) or (Pracimantoro-Girisubo-Sadeng-Wediombo); and from Kalten (Ngawen-Semin-Karangmojo-Semanu-Panggul-Jepitu-Wediombo).

Nuart Sculpture Park | Where art is for everyone

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IF YOU LIVE in Jakarta, Bandung or Bali, most likey you would have come across an artwork created by Nyoman Nuarta. Among his pieces are the Garuda statue at Soekarno-Hatta International Airport, the Arjuna statue just outside Monas and the hand sculpture in Setraduta housing complex in Bandung, to name a few.

Born on Nov. 14, 1951, this Balinese artist does not look like he is slowing down, escpecially with his latest work, the Garud Wisnu Kencana, which will stand up to153 meters tall in Ungasan, Bali, and is due to be completed in August 2018 as a gift to the nation. It is so tall, especially compared to the surrounding resorts and residential area, you could see it from a landing plane.

Nyoman Nuarta’s Balines roots might explain his talent, with Bali culturally known to be home to stone and wood scultors, however Nuarta decided to choose a different media: copper, brass and steel. Being a big fan of his publicly displayed art, it was only a matter of time before I visited Nuart Sculpture Park located within the Setraduta complex in Bandung.

Living up to my expectation, the gallerycum-park was beautiful. Entering its gates, we were welcomed by a few works in his signature style. Nyoman Nuarta, in my opinion, has this gothic eerie feel to his work whether the piece is made of metal or other material. His art contains a lot of emotion and movement, not to mention detail that could lead one to marvel for hours. He alwasys has a concept behind his work, which in the art world, to my understanding, is not a necessity. There’s a story behind every piece of art.

Roaming around the gallery shows the wide skill range and creativity of Nyoman Nuarta. Many of the pieces are inspired by his family, especially the strong women around him, the environment and important events. The faces of his children and grandchildren are muses, which clearly pop up in his work. A mother orangutan holding her baby amongst tree stumps tells the story of the dying species along with its environment. One of the most prominent pieces is “Nightmare”, located in the middle of the plastered indoor gallery, which reminds us of the women mutilated not long after the 1998 incident in Jakarta.

“Moral of the story: We should cherish the women in our lives that have given us life,” says one the interns on duty that day.

Listening to the stories behind some of the pieces I realize that despite the work being made of strong elements, there is a deeply sensitive man caring and observing the world that we live in today. Well, there is also a cute seemingly-fluffy sheep made of metal, inspired during a trip to New Zealand, which doesn’t necessarily need any explation.

The gallery itself is a piece of art.

Covered top to bottom in plaster and wood, as is the current trend for houses, cafes and restaurants. It balances out the details of Nuarta’s work and creates the perfect canvas for its shadows. It is also a well-designed place as a the spaces are not just room after room, but more of an open space where you can see most of the artwork. The exterior façade is far from plain, decorated with blue glass combined with detailed walls. In addition, there is an amphitheater for art performances, surrounded by a lush green environment overlooking a gushing river. Amongst the greenery is some of Nuarta’s larger works, including my favorite, a blue whale with its disconnected tail not too far from its head. The sporadic artwork becomes a kind of hunt, as you don’t know where you’ll find the next piece. Not to forget the restaurant, where visitors can take a break, because surely the park will take a lot of time. Whether you enjoy art and Nuarta’s work, or not, the park has a way to entertain anyone who visits.

And of course, Nuart Sculpture Par has a souvenir shop, probably unlike any other. Aside from books and park memorabilia, the shop also offers various and interesting artworks and wearable items such as clothes, watches, notebooks and wallets from local artist. So there’s a little bit for everyone, leaving us to believe that art is for everyone. [Sources : by The Jakarta Post |Words: Murni A Ridha]


Sawahlunto Tours Destination Steeped in History

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WHEN TOURISTS used to ask about places to visit in West Sumatra, one of the most common answers was the city of Bukittinggi. Today though, that answer includes Sawahlunto.

The next question would then be: “What is  there to see in Sawahlunto?” And the answer is that the city has as many – if not more – tourist objects than Bukittinggi.

Sawahlunto, like Bukittinggi, is a small city, but it has a rich historical heritage. It is home to seven museums and old buildings from the Dutch-colonial era that are quite well preserved. They all reflect that past way of life in the coal-mining town.

In 2015 Sawahlunto was shortlisted on the tentative UNESCO World Heritage list as an Old Coal Mining Town. And in 2019, the government will include Sawahlunto in its list of proposed sites to the World Heritage Committee.

The list will be expanded to include the remains of the supporting infrastructure for coal production in the 19thcentury. These include a 155.5-km railway crossing six regencies and towns in West Sumatra, all the way to Teluk Bayur Seaport, which used to be called Emma Haven, a docking location for coal bound for exports.

Sawahlunto is situated in a valley. It was founded by the Dutch in 1888 when a big reserve of high-quality coal was discovered in the area. Until today, the coal is still mined in small volumes; large-scale mining activities, or deep mining, were halted in the early 2000s.

Mining-related building boasting Dutch style architecture are common sight in the region, including the main office of the coal mining company founded in 1916 and now the icon of Sawahlunto. There are also three silos in the form of giant concrete cylinders 40 metes in height that were used to store coal.

Tourists can also visit the Cultural Building, which in the colonial era was dubbed the Ball House. It hosted billiard tournament s and cultural events. Another building is a cooperative building called Ons Belang. Constructed in 1920, it was used as the office of the cooperative whose members were the Dutch and the Indo-Dutch. Hotel Ombilin, meanwhile,was constructed in 1918 and used to house Dutch mining engineers, and the graceful St. Barbara Church was built in 1920.

But one of the more popular sites among tourists is the Mbah Soero mining tunnel, the area’s first coal mine that opened in 1898.

The mining tunnel’s attractions include a sad story of the “chained people”, thousands of convicts sent to West Sumatera from prisons in Java and other regions in Indonesia. They were shipped by the Dutch colonial government, their feet in chain, to work as miners. Many of these chained people lost their lives in Sawahlunto.

Tourist can enter the tunnel accompanied by a guide for only 56 US$ cents per person. Outside the tunnel is a statue of the chained people, and in the building’s Info Box, tourists can view various tools used by the miners.

Related to Mbah Soero is the Goedang RAnsoem Museum. Constructed in 1918, it was used as a soup kitchen for mine workers. Visitors can see the cooking utensils used in that era, including stoves and cauldrons.
The Train Museum, meanwhile, is located where Sawahlunto Station used to be. This is the only train museum on Sumatra and the second in Indonesia, after the first one in Ambarawa. The musem houses a collection of train equipment and devices used in Sawahlunto from 1918. In the yard, visitors can view the legendary locomotive dubbed “Mak Item”, and a wooden carriage that reminds us of the American carriages from the Wild West.
In front of the coal mining company building, PT Bukit Asam, is the Ombilin Coal Mining Museum, which is managed by Bukit Asam’s Ombilin Mining Unit. The museum also functions as the company’s documentation and archive center.

In front of the museum, viistors are greeted by the statue of Ir. J.W.Ijzermen, a Dutchman who held the Ombilin Coal mining project in Sawahlunto until it become productive in 1892. Inside are pictures of Willem Hendrik de Greve, who discovered the coal reserve in Sawahlunto in 1867.

Three other museums in the city are not directly related to the history of Sawahlunto, but they can offer visitors an enjoyable day of culture and entertainment. They are the Etno Kayu Paint Museum, which display modern paintings and wooden crafts; Museum Seni Musik, which houses a collection of musical instruments from various regions in Indonesia and abroad; and Museum Tari, displaying a trove of accessories for Minangkabau traditional dances.

 Tourists can visit all seven museums and historical buildings in one day on foot as they are located in the Old Town area.

Sawahlunto also has family entertainment facilities located some 12 kms from Old Town. One of these is Kandi Zoo, wehre visitors can not only see animals but also paly paintball and engage in other outbound activities.

Every December, to commemorate its anniversary, Sawahlunto holds a horse race at its 1,400 –m track, the second-longest in the country. The arena can accommodate 30,000 spectators.

Other family-friendly destinations are the Rantih tourism village, Fruit Garden and Waterboom Waterpark, as well as sites to enjoy the area’s beautiful scenery, such as Cemara Peak and Polan Peak.

Also in Sawahlunto is the grave of national hero Mohammad Yamin. The grave is situated in Talawi, 15 km from the center of town. Yamin was one of the early concept writes of Indonesia’s ideology and a proclaimer of the historic Youth Pledge.


Sawahlunto is only 95 kilometers from Padang and 88 kilometers from Bukittinggi. If visitors don’t have time to stay the night, they can still enjoy what the town has to offer by making a one-day trip from either of these cities in a rental car.

Backpackers can easily visit Sawahlunto on a budget. From Minangkabau Ekspres airport train to Simpang Haru Station (the last station). Currently tickets for the Minangkabau Ekspres cost only $0.8.

From the station, visitors can walk 350 meters or take an ojek (motorcycle taxi) t oa minibus shelter. From there, they take a minibus to Sawahlunto in Tugu Api. The bus fare is 1.3$ and the minibus is available every hour from morning until late afternoon. The minibus stops at a terminal in the center of Sawahlunto, and visitors can stay at one of the budget homestays that are abundant in the area.


 [Sources : by The Jakarta Post |Words: Syofiardi Bachyul Jb]


XI’AN Showcases Chinese Culture Interwined with Islamic Traditions

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Greetings to everyone: A Muslim lady on a bike takes her time for afternoon chit-chat. In Xi'an, Muslims have been part of society for 1,300 years.


Walking through the Muslim quarter of Xi’an is a fascinating adventure into an exciting mixture of Muslim and Chinese cultures.


The sound of a Chinese lady in a hijab selling fried squid and the smell of lamb skewers offered by a Chinese man with a white peci cap permeates the air. Visit the mosque where there are Islamic calligraphies under a traditional Chinese roof.

In China, the Muslims are a part of the “five great peoples of China,” along with Mongols, Tibetans, Manchus and the Han.



There are 10 Islamic Minzu (ethnic minorities) in China, including the Turko-Mongol speaking communities living in China’s northwest provinces, which include a group of Farsi speakers, the Uighur in Xinjiang, and the Hui who scattered all over China.

Located in central northwest China, Xi’an is home to Hui Muslims. The city is also famous for its tourist sites, such as Emperor Qinshuang’s mausoleum, the fortificatios of Xi’an and the Musuem of Terracotta Armies.

According to the 2012 census, Xi’an is home to more than 8 million people of which 60.000 are Muslims. Islam reached Xi’an in the second year of the Yonghui period of the Tang Dynasty (653 AD), 43 years after Islam was founded in 610 AD at that time, the Silk Road played an important roe in spreading its message across China.

The interesting part of the Hui Muslims in the Xi’an Muslim quarter is the degree of acculturation, without necessarily being assimilated into the ethnic majority, the Han.

The Hui people in Xi’an are proud of their identity boasting 1,300 years of Islamic history. At the same time, Chinese culture flows organically in their veins, making the hijab and peci the only means of Islamic identification.


One of the reason for the unique acculturation is the Hui’s dual ancestry.
“We (Hui Muslims) are the descendants of Arab men and Chinese women. If you see my pointed nose, I inherited it from my Persian ancestors,” said Hasan, the Great Mosque of Xi’an’s keeper.

Hasan also mentioned that Hui religious activities are inseparable from their Chinese heritage.

“I think around 90% of Hui Muslims find it difficult to read the Qur’an because of the dialect. Many of us memorize the compulsory verses to salat and use the Xi’an dialect to pray,” he explained.

Hasan then recited Quran verses, Al Fatiha (1), An-Nas (114) and Al-Ikhlas (112). The combination of the Xi’an dialect and Arabic fashions a deep rhytm that seeps into the subconscious in Indonesia. It might be similar to Langgam jawa, reciting Qur’an verses with a Javanese rhytm.

At the Great Mosque of Xi’an, acculturation appears robust in the form of architecture.

According to Nancy Shatzman, who wrote a research article on China’s earliest mosques, it was constructed under Emperor Hongwu during the Ming Dynasty. It consists of five courtyards and a long axial building oriented to the west or Mecca.

The establishment of the mosque is frequently attributed to China’s famous Muslim admiral Cheng Ho.


No bacon, no problem: Halal food, or Qingzhen, is easily spotted across Xi’an’s Muslim Quarter. In line with Islamic lawa, pork is forbidden. Thus, Muslims in Xi’an tend to substitute pork with lamb.


Cheng, who also built a mosque in Nanjing, is known for spreading Islam in south and West Asia, Africa and Indonesia.

Hassan mentioned that the city government supported the mosque’s development, including its restoration if needed.

“We have a good relationship with the government because they support the development of the building. Even during the Ming dynasty the emperor supported the effort to build the complex,” Hasan said.

Calligraphic inscriptions are found nearly everywhere around the mosque’s courtyard, such as Quranic verses, prophetic traditions, the bismillah(the opening), the shadah (Islamic faith statements), the six beliefs of Islam, the divine attribute of Allah and the angels.

The Chinese architectural style of the mosque is represented by a temple-like compound around the courtyard. Inside, it is ornamented with pillars and beams decorated wit hhorizontal Chinese-inscribed boards.

Hence, the Great Mosque of Xi’an represents a unique combination of Arabic culture and china architecture.

Another part of acculturation can be seen in the food.
The quarter serves unlimited halal food. In Chinese, halal food is called qingzhen, translated as pure food. Hui Muslims prepare food according to Islamic  laws of permission and prohibition ,meaning that pork and liquor are forbidden.

Abstaining from pork and alcohol is a sign of value internalization in their daily activities.

As a substitute, Xi’an Muslims eat lamb and seafood. Lamb is nearly everywhere in the quarter, ranging from skewers to noodle soup.

The Han culture is also present in the way food is prepared. In halal restaurants, it is common to divide food into hot and cold categories. The eating habits resemble Han culture, which maintains the balance between food components and a healthy lifestyle.

Like many Muslims, rituals are an essential tool in maintaining religiosity.

Hui Muslims in Xi’an celebrate Eid ul fitr and Eid ul Adha with big feasts and other cultural events.

“We celebrate Eid ul Fitr and Eid ul Adha every year. I also took a pilgrimage to Mecca. I went there in 2013,” Hasan said.

Visiting the Muslim quarter in Xi’an is indeed an experience, especially when learning more about Islam and china. For most people, including Indonesians, it would seem far-fetched that Islam and Chinese culture can coexist, especially under a communist regime.

However, successful acculturation does not necessarily marginalize the minority because the Hui have shown that they can maintain and retain their ethnic social ties (Chinese culture) as well as their ethnic religiosity.



Devotion: A man prays inside the Great Mosque of Xi’an



Entrance fee: It costs 25 yuan to enter the Great Mosque of Xi’an. Legend says the Great Mosque was founded by the naval admiral Cheng Ho, who had big influence spreading Islam in Indonesia.


The Other Side of KOREA Art, food & history

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Come over: A South Korean market vendor (right) waits for customers at her food stall at Namdaemun market in Seoul. (AFP/Park Ji-hwan)


A group of Indonesian journalists, including The Jakarta Post, was invited by the Korea Tourism Organization to join a familiarization trip to South Korea. A number of Asian journalists and bloggers from Malaysia, Singapore, China and Japan also took part in the three-day trip.

It was raining on the day we arrived in Seoul, South Korea — a typhoon was approaching and a festival meant to welcome autumn was canceled.

In many other cities, such a situation would turn a perfectly planned holiday into an expensive misfortune. But not in Seoul, a city so vibrant that not even bad weather could spoil its charm.

If anything — especially if you’re a pluviophile or do not mind getting a little wet in the rain — it actually makes the city even more charming.

In the past few years, Seoul has expanded its charm beyond its pretty parks and fancy shopping malls. It has actually been promoting its traditional markets as one of its tourist attractions.

At a glance, the idea may seem odd. Seoul, like other major Asian cities, is highly modern and urbanized. Only after visiting the markets did I find the idea plausible, if not brilliant — something that perhaps only Koreans could pull off.

The argument for the tourism strategy is quite simple. South Korea is known for many things, with K-pop and K-drama now being its biggest cultural exports. It is not uncommon for tourists (read: feverish K-pop fanboys and fangirls) to come to Seoul just to see their K-pop idols.

But Korea, an ancient civilization that has survived wars and destruction, is much bigger than boy band BTS and other K-pop sensations.

And one of the cheapest, fastest and most fun ways to learn about Korean history and culture is, of course, by visiting its remaining traditional markets.

South Korea has many historic traditional markets. In Seoul alone, there are three traditional markets that you may want to visit while you are there: Namdaemun Market, Tongin Market and Mangwon Market.

Namdaemun Market, opened in 1414, is the largest traditional market in the country, attracting more than 300,000 visitors every day. There you can find Korean art, clothes, cuisine and many other things in a single location.

If you’re looking for Korean souvenirs, Namdaemun is the place. But if you like to eat but do not feel like going to a fancy restaurant or are simply on a tight budget, then Tongin Market is the place you are looking for.


Memories: A sculpture pays tribute to Korean drama series Winter Sonata in Chuncheon, Gangwon province, in South Korea. The romantic drama’s huge success brought in tourists to the country. (The Jakarta Post/Ary Hermawan)


The market is an alley of small shops offering traditional Korean food like bibimbap (mixed rice with meat and assorted vegetables), kimchi (fermented vegetables), gimbap (rice roll) and japchae (stir-fried glass noodles).

There you can get a tray and buy food using traditional Korean coins called yeopjeon — a simple feature that makes you feel like you are traveling back to the old days in Korea.

Other than traditional markets, South Korea has given tourists another reason to visit the country: its vibrant theater scene, especially in October, when the city’s cultural center Daehak-ro holds its annual Daehak-ro festival.

The Korean performing arts scene had developed way before K-pop and K-drama grabbed global attention, producing many talents that have made Seoul one of the leading art and cultural centers in Asia today.

During our trip, we had the chance to watch two plays in Daehak-ro: Only You, a popular musical filled with 1990s Korean hits, and Finding Mr. Destiny, which was adapted into a rom-com in 2010. We also had the chance to watch the epic play 1446 at Theater Yong at the National Museum of Korea.

Wait, are you wondering if I speak Korean? No, I do not. Some theaters in Seoul provided English, Chinese and Japanese translations for foreign audience members.


Hot and spicy: Korean dish bibimbap, which literally means “mixed rice”, is served as a bowl of warm white rice topped with sautéed vegetables, gochujang (Korean chili pepper paste) and soy sauce with raw or fried egg and slices of meat. (www.souschef.co.uk/file)


While the subtitles might not capture the nuances of the dialogue, they still let you follow the important parts of the play even if you do not understand the language. It also gives you some of the funniest lines, though not all of them, since at some parts you could hear the rest of the audience laughing without you.

On the last two days of our trip in Seoul, the sky was clear. We took a city tour with the Artee Riders Club, which takes tourists on a rickshaw ride into the popular attractions in Seoul, including its historical villages and alleys.

The 60-minute tour ended at Gyeongbok Palace, where many Koreans could be seen strolling in their beautiful traditional dress, called hanbok. A rickshaw tour is perhaps shorter than a bus tour, but it could give you a more intimate picture of Seoul, as told by an English-speaking driver who knows the city’s history.

A city tour in Seoul is nice. But if you are a food or musical lover, the city is certainly best experienced in many of its traditional markets and theater halls.

Daehak-ro Street the mecca of plays


Together: A scene from Finding Mr. Destiny, one of the most popular musicals shown in Daehak-ro in Seoul


Daehak-ro Street is widely known as “the mecca of performance arts”, “Korea’s Broadway” and a “symbol of Korean youth and culture”.

For decades, it has served as Seoul’s cultural center. In Korean, Daehak-ro means “College Street”. It was given the moniker as it used to be the headquarters of Seoul National University — which included its College of Liberal Arts and Science and College of Law — before the university relocated its campuses.

The area is now home to 160 performance halls. It holds, according to the Korean Tourism Organization (KTO), four times the number of theaters than New York’s Broadway and three times that of London’s West End.

For Indonesian tourists, the area would perhaps remind them of Jakarta’s own cultural center, Taman Ismail Marzuki (TIM). It is more or less the same as TIM, only bigger and way more vibrant with many shows throughout the year.

October, however, is the best time to visit Daehak-ro. Throughout the month, the KTO organizes Welcome Daehak-ro, a festival in which foreign tourists can enjoy a number of musicals and plays with English subtitles.

Some of the most popular musicals are Finding Mr. Destiny, Love Comes with the Rain, Oh! While You Were Sleeping, Only You, Laundry and 1446. The ticket prices range from 15,000 won (US$13.22) to 60,000 won.

Some performances, such as Finding Mr. Destiny and Only You, are shown in small theater halls where the artists can interact with the audience.

During these shows, you cannot help but envy the local audience, because there is improvised dialogue without subtitles that always draws laughter.

Outside the halls, at Marronnier Park, some amateur artists, mostly musicians or hip-hop dancers, usually perform for free. During Welcome Daehak-ro festival, some non-verbal performances are also shown at the park.

No subtitles are provided for outdoor performances, of course, but they are still enjoyable. After all, millions of people around the world have been drawn to K-pop, even if they only know one or two Korean words.

Choose your traditional Korean markets

Traditional markets can be found in all provinces in Korea. The Korean Tourism Organization has listed at least 17 top traditional markets that you can choose to visit while in the country.

Among them are Cunccheon Jungang (Nangman) Market in Gangwon-do, Suwon Nammun Market in Gyeonggido, Singi Market in Incheon, Seomun Market in Daegu and 1913 Songjeong Station Market in Gwangju.

Each market has its own unique features. Singi Market, for instance, operates a unique payment system where buyers can use special coins called singi tongboto pay for certain merchandise.


Korean style: A South Korean shop tailor checks fabric at the hanbok (traditional dress) market in Gwangju city, South Korea. (AFP/Kim Jae-Hwan)


Seomun Market is one of the largest and most historic markets in Korea. It goes back to the age of the Joseon dynasty.

The market’s main products are textile goods and hanbok traditional costumes, but it has recently been known for its night market, which offers treats like napjakmandu (flat dumplings) and tteokbooki (spicy stir-fried rice cakes).

Nangman market, meanwhile, is known for its romantic atmosphere. Chuncheon itself is known as the “City of Romance”. The city is especially known for being the filming location of the 2002 K-drama classic Winter Sonata and the city’s romance theme can be found even in one of its traditional markets.

We had the chance to visit Nangman Market on the second day of our trip. Located just one hour away from Seoul, the market has stores that are decorated with drawings that lend a fun twist, preventing the space from feeling somber. If you explore deeper into the market, you will find various sculptures and wall murals, adding to the creative vibe of the place.

But do not forget that Nangman Market is still a market where you can find various products ranging from daily necessities to hanbok, bags, shoes, clothes, electronic appliances, jewelry and food.

A wide range of people, whether locals or foreign tourists, go there to shop.


ASTANA, The City of Peace, Turns 20

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Words Veeramalla Anjaiah  Photos Courtesy of Embassy of Kazakhstan JakartaKazakhstan citizens in Indonesia joyfully celebrated the 20th anniversary of Astana, the capital city of Kazakhstan, in Jakarta on Wednesday at Hotel Borobudur in Jakarta.

Astana, one of the youngest cities in the world, is a beautiful and modern city in Central Asia. It took just 10 years for world famous architects like Norman Foster and many others to built such a marvelous city. With a population of more than one million people, Astana has been growing very rapidly, as is evident from the tremendous growth in its gross domestic product (GDP).

According to The Astana Times, the GDP of Astana city has gone up to US$16 billion in 2017 from just $3.2 billion in 2007, a record jump of more than 500 percent.

With modern buildings and beautiful towers like the Presidential Palace, Golden Towers, Singing Fountains, Bayterek Tower, Nur-Astana Mosque, Opera House and the tent shaped Khan Shatyr shopping mall, Astana is a very interesting place to visit.

Kazakhstan and the people of Astana are proud about the growth of Astana.

“Astana is the creation of the whole Kazakhstan. We have created a miracle in the 21th century. In the history of manking, no such city has been built in 20 years. But we did it! Kazakhstan President Nursultan Nazarbayev said recently in Astana.

Echoing a similar view Kazakhstan Ambassador to Indonesia Askhat Orazbay, said Astana was not just a capital city but a point of pride for all Kazakhstan people.

“Astana is not only a dynamically developing megapolis with eye-catching architecture, it is the sacred center of the country, our pride and the result of the efforts of the entire nation,” Ambassador Orazbay said at a reception to celebrate Astana’s 20thanniversary.

Amazing Astana, in a short period of time, has emerged as major hub for diplomatic, economic and cultural activities.

In 2010, Astana according to Orazbay, became the host of the historic summit of the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe. Last year, Astana hosted the world’s biggest trade exhibition called Expo 22017. It also hosted the first Summit of the Organization of Islamci Cooperation (OIC) on Science and Technology and adopted a forward-looking document – the Astana Declaration on Science, Technology, Innovation and Modernization in the Islamic World, Indonesian Vice President Jusuf Kalla attended the OIC Summit in Astana.

According to Orazbay, Astana was awarded by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) in 1999 the title “City of Peace”.

“Astana has been the host to nine rounds of Syrian peace talks, which began last year. All the parties involved in the conflict guarantors and international organizations are involved in the these talks, which are aimed at ending the conflict in Syria,” Orazbay told The Jakarta Post.

Kazakhstan is also currently a nonpermanent member of the United Nations Security Council.

As a peace loving country, Kazakhstan launched a new initiative called the Congress of leaders of World and Traditional Religions in Astana several years back with the exclusive aim of promoting peace and harmony in the world.

Astana, Orzabay said, would host the VI Congress of Leaders of World and Traditional Religions from Oct 10-11 with the theme of “Religious leaders for a safe world”.[Sources: The Jakarta Post, Friday, July 20, 2018]



Steeped in history but crumbling Albania’s ‘slanted city’

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The Lolomani dwelling, formerly the home of the Ottoman period family of that name, was once an impressive sight in the mountainside town of Gjirokastra in southern Albania.


Now the house lies in ruins, like dozens of others in the "City of Stone," defined by its castle, steep cobblestone roads and silvery-coloured limestone structures with views of the Drino Valley near the border with Greece.

Many of the centuries-old, fortified buildings, which won the town a place on the prestigious UNESCO World Heritage List in 2005, are a tourist attraction but are at risk of disappearing.

Some are deserted or have not been maintained for years, others underwent changes that have destroyed their historic value, or have too many owners to agree on the necessary work or they are simply too poor to afford the repairs.

Authorities in the Balkan nation don't have the means to restore them either.

"I feel pain for every stone, every wall that is getting damaged," sighs Email Nacaj, a 58-year-old house painter, who remembers the collapse of the Lolomani house in winter 2016.

Below, the roof of his own house has half fallen in.

"I'm scared here, but my mother does not want to leave," he says.

Even if he had the money, he couldn't do anything – his cousin, who lives in the capital, Tirana, and is a co-owner, refuses.

Out of 615 monuments in the town's historic centre "more than half are subjected to illegal or out-of-context constructions, while 169 are in critical condition or at risk of collapse," warned Europa Nostra, a pan-European federation of heritage NGOs, early this year.

Once upon a time

Most of the buildings date from the 17th and 18th centuries, although the town's origins go back further and its walls were built in the 3rd century.

Albania's most famous writer Ismail Kadare famously described his native Gjirokastra as the "slanted city, set at a sharper angle than perhaps any other city on earth."


"It was surely the only place in the world where, if you slipped and fell in the street, you might well land on the roof of a house," he wrote in his 1971 novel "Chronicle In Stone."

Massive emigration has compounded the buildings' fate, as Gjirokastra has not been immune to the trend plaguing Albania.

The town's population has dropped from 34,000 in 2011 to less than 25,000, according to Engjell Seriani, head of tourism at the town hall.

Its houses are named after their original owners, dignitaries of the Ottoman Empire such as Lolomani, Karaulli, Fico, Zeko, Babameto, whose power was measured by the number of chimneys on their homes.

Today, Sokol Karaulli, a descendant of one of those noble families, says his way of life is a far cry from the ostentation of his home's substantial five chimneys.

A former soldier but not yet eligible for his pension, he says they only survive thanks to the salary of his pastry chef wife.

"The day when we will say 'Once upon a time there was Gjirokastra' can happen," the 60-year-old warned.

Karaulli cut off the electricity on the first floor and placed plastic washing-up bowls to collect the leaking water that had already rotted the wooden frame of his crumbling house.

Worsening daily

Around the town's bazaar, the clean facades are down to a three-million-euro ($3.5-million) restoration footed by an Albanian-US association and the World Bank.

Small stalls tout souvenirs to tourists, 77,000 of whom visited the citadel last year. Their numbers grow 10 to 15 percent annually.

"However Gjirokastra is not only the bazaar and those emblematic places," said architect Lejla Hadzic, of the NGO Cultural Heritage without Borders (CHwB).

Elsewhere, "the situation ... is getting worse day by day," she said.

In 2014, the NGO had warned of the "rapid destruction" of the historic districts of the town, where Albania's former communist dictator Enver Hoxha grew up.

Of the 650 buildings it took into account, CHwB said 40 were in a very poor condition, 34 were in ruins, while 15 were on the verge of collapse.

Now, the number in ruins has gone up to 47, it says.

'Only one Gjirokastra in the world'

Today about 80 houses are uninhabited, raising the possibility that a leaky roof will affect the wooden structure.


"Every day, I see something that is wrong, as if the building is whispering to me to do something," said deputy mayor Vangjel Muco.

But with a total overall budget of 2.5-3 million euros, his municipality cannot tackle the issue properly.

Albanian Culture Minister Mirela Kumbaro insists the town "is no longer in danger" and that the government has taken the problem in hand.

Since 2013 structural changes to Gjirokastra houses have been banned. She also has high hopes for a newly passed law on cultural foundations, as well as for tourism after the conversion of about 20 houses into hotels.

But the CHwB believes that Gjirokastra can hope for "no more than 10,000 euros" from the national budget.

And renovating the Babameto house alone cost 160,000 euros which came from Sweden.

Just to reinforce all the ruins would take another 1.2 million euros, according to Hadzic.

"All the actors dealing with cultural heritage should really take it seriously and intervene as fast as possible because there's only one Gjirokastra in the world," she warned.

Source: AFP


Tales of Leonardo, enigmatic genius GINA DOGGETT

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A picture taken in center Milan on May 3, 2019 shows the details of a statue of Italian Renaissance genius Leonardo da Vinci done by Italian sculpture Pietro Magni. (AFP/Miguel Medina)

Leonardo da Vinci, who died 500 years ago on Thursday, lives in the collective memory as an enigmatic genius who embodied the Italian Renaissance. Here are some anecdotes about his extraordinary life and work.

'Fake news': Leonardo died in the arms of King Francis I

An 1818 painting by French artist Jean-Auguste Dominique Ingres shows Leonardo da Vinci breathing his last with his patron, France's King Francis I, at his bedside.

The scene was inspired by an account in "Lives of the Artists" by Giorgio Vasari, first published in 1550.

Vasari, seen as the father of art history, wrote that Leonardo "died in the arms of the monarch". The problem is that it could not be true. According to historical records, the king was a two-day ride away in Saint-Germain-en-Laye, near Paris, for the baptism of his second son on May 3, the day after the Renaissance master died.

While the Ingres painting, which hangs in the Petit Palais in Paris, is the best-known depiction of the sentimental fiction, it was itself inspired by a 1781 painting by Francois-Guillaume Menageot, which is on display at the royal chateau of Amboise after meticulous restoration work for the quincentenary.

Lover of birds, and flight

A story about Leonardo speaks to both his love of nature and fascination with flight. He would often pity cooped up birds on sale in markets, plunk down the asking price for them and then release them into the air. Leonardo had a legendary obsession with the flight of birds and how understanding the mechanism could lead to the creation of a human flying machine.

Read also: France, Italy mark 500th anniversary of Leonardo's death

The face of a traitor

Leonardo was in the habit of roaming the streets of Milan in search of beautiful or unusual faces, according to Giorgio Vasari, the 16th-century father of art history. "He would follow any such... through the whole day, until the figure of the person would become so well impressed on his mind that, having returned home, he would draw him as readily as though he stood before him," Vasari wrote.

But when it came to the face of Judas for The Last Supper, Leonardo was at a loss as to how to portray a man who "possessed a heart so depraved as to be capable of betraying his Lord". Work on the famous mural at the Santa Maria delle Grazie monastery dragged on, and its prior grew so impatient that he complained to the Duke of Milan. He fumed that Leonardo would "sometimes remain half a day... absorbed in thought before his work, without making any progress that he could see," Vasari related. "This seemed to him such a strange waste of time."

Summoned by the Duke, Leonardo explained that "men of genius are sometimes producing the most when they seem to be labouring the least" and revealed his difficulty finding a face for Judas, as well as that of Jesus, which he feared that "he could not hope to find on earth."

At least for Judas, Leonardo had a fallback plan. He told the Duke he could always use the prior's face. Henceforth, "the poor prior, utterly confounded... left Leonardo in peace," Vasari wrote.

Oh, that smile!

One of the many artistic conventions that Leonardo da Vinci upended was the portrayal of people smiling, with no smile more famous than that of his Mona Lisa.

Facial expressions were a source of deep fascination for Leonardo, who conducted meticulous anatomical studies to determine the nerves that trigger them.

Biographer Walter Isaacson writes that while by day Leonardo was painting Mona Lisa, by night he "was in the depths of the morgue... peeling the flesh off cadavers and exposing the muscles and nerves underneath."

And how did he get the young wife of a Florentine silk merchant to smile through hour upon hour of sittings?

Contemporary biographer Giorgio Vasari wrote in the 1550 work "Lives of the Artists" that Leonardo saw the need to keep the lady entertained, and hired musicians and jesters for the purpose. An 1863 painting by Cesare Maccari shows such a studio scene, with Leonardo's subject flanked by musicians. The work is housed at the Museo Cassioli Pittura in Siena, Italy.


France, Italy mark 500th anniversary of Leonardo's death

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#Italian President Sergio Mattarella (L) and French President Emmanuel Macron pay their respects at the tomb of Italian renaissance painter and scientist Leonardo da Vinci to commemorate the 500th anniversary of his death, at the Saint-Hubert Chapel of the Chateau d'Amboise during a visit in Amboise, on May 2, 2019. (POOL/AFP/Philippe Wojazer)

French President Emmanuel Macron and Italian counterpart Sergio Mattarella on Thursday kicked off commemorations to mark 500 years since Leonardo da Vinci died in France, paying their respects to the Renaissance genius in a show of unity after months of diplomatic tensions.

"The bond between our countries and our citizens is indestructible," Macron said after the two men lunched at the Clos Luce, the sumptuous manor house where Leonardo spent the last three years of his life.

Mattarella and Macron, who was accompanied by his wife Brigitte, began their visit at the royal chateau in Amboise, where the heads of state laid wreaths at Leonardo's grave.

The Italian leader had started his day with a visit to the fire-ravaged Notre Dame cathedral in Paris.

The joint celebrations come after months of mounting diplomatic tensions between Paris and Rome over the hardline policies of Italy's populist government and its support for France's anti-government "yellow vest" protesters.

In the worst diplomatic crisis between the two countries since World War II, Paris briefly recalled its ambassador from Rome.

Amboise, a sleepy town on the Loire River where Leonardo died in 1519 aged 67, was in virtual lockdown because of fears of protests by France's grassroots "yellow vest" movement.

Amboise was turned into a ghost town, with traffic banned within a five-kilometer radius and the usually teeming restaurants and shops shuttered. On Wednesday, dozens of cars were towed away, with some foreign owners apparently unaware of the draconian security measures in the town of just 13,000.

The presidential helicopter arrived on a river island in the heart of the town, touching down on a pad usually used to launch hot-air balloons over the chateau-studded valley.

Also Thursday, the two presidents visited the sprawling chateau of Chambord -- whose central double-helix staircase is attributed to Leonardo though the first stone was not laid until four months after his death.

Among glitterati attending the events were Italian star architect Renzo Piano, French astronaut Thomas Pesquet and historian Stephane Bern, a prominent French television personality.

At Chambord, Pesquet told a group of around 500 Italian and French youths: "If Leonardo were alive today, maybe he would be a European astronaut."

The entire Loire Valley has seized on Leonardo's quincentenary as that of the Renaissance in general, planning more than 500 events across the region, with Bern as the figurehead.

Read also: At Amboise, Leonardo's last years paint a picture of Franco-Italian harmony

'Architect of the king'

Francis I, known as the "Sun King of the 16th century", is widely credited with bringing the Renaissance to France, even if his predecessor Louis XII had begun the process by bringing in architects and artisans from Florence, Milan and Rome.

Leonardo was 64 when he accepted the young Francis I's invitation to Amboise, at a time when rivals Michelangelo and Raphael were rising stars.

With Leonardo's commissions drying up, it came as a great relief and no small vindication for the Tuscan artist, who received a handsome stipend as the "first painter, engineer and architect of the king".

At the time, Francis I was barely 23, and his ambitious mother Louise of Savoy "knew that Leonardo would be the man who would allow her son to flourish", Catherine Simon Marion, managing director of the Clos Luce, told AFP.

Leonardo brought with him three of his favorite paintings: the Mona Lisa, the Virgin and Child with Saint Anne, and Saint John the Baptist -- all of which today hang in the Louvre museum in Paris.

Italy and France have also sparred over an accord under which Italy will lend several Leonardos to the Louvre in October.

With fewer than 20 Leonardo paintings still in existence, many Italians are resentful that the Louvre possesses five of them, as well as 22 drawings.

During his three years in Amboise, Leonardo organised lavish parties for the court and worked to design an ideal city for Francis at nearby Romorantin -- one of the polymath's many unrealized projects -- all while continuing his research

Hour China

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Ep1. ANCESTORS

*wuxi – qinhuan : Zhangguo – yellow river

*Zhukou – 1950 communits

*Yangzhou 1900 BC : xia, fuxi , nuwa . Erlitou, Henan province : old town, grandcanal 605 BC

#Xia Dynasty

#Shang Dynasty 16th– 11thcBCE : first chinese letter :  big, water,heaven

*Anyang – Henan

*Shangqiu 1511 : King Di Xin 1105- 1046 BCE

#Zhou dynasty 1066 – 256 BCE : Taoisme, Qufu capital – The Analect of Confuncious, warring states period 5thcBCE (metofora hidup) : kemanusiaan & morality. 551 – 479 BCE, what a joy it is to have friends come from far away/kebahagiaan adalah memililik teman yang datang dari tempat yang jauh.

#Qin dynasty 221 – 2016 BCE / Qin Shi Huang Di 259 – 210 BCE :  Xian – changgan

#Han Dynasty / Liu Bang 265 – 195 BCE / 206 BCE – 220 CE :

*Luoyang – Sima Qian 145 – 86 BCE ; choi’s city


Ep.2 SILK ROAD & CHINA SHIP

#TANG Empire 618 – 907  AC * Xuan Zhang : Longmen Caves  - Matanga. Taklamakan Desert / masuklah kau tidak bisa keluar kembali.

Empire taizong 598 – 649 – Anxing

*Gaozhang 640-648 Taizong’s campaign in the west ; Grandcanal : Du Mu “Saat Yangzhou berjarak 16 km dari angin musim panas” 830 eufisme dalam puisi.

*Xinjiang – expanse muslim – Li Bai / bertempur di barat. Sungai kashar – Sung patia – Tiangasan mountain – Jiara, Xuanshong empir vs An Lusan, Sin Siming : “Adegan musim semi “ by Du Fu.

*Xi’an 638 AC. : xian ling mosoleum 700 Ac.


GOLDEN AGE

#TANG EMPIRE 967 AC collapse/ Kaifeng – Central china

#SONG DYNASTY 960 AC -  chen duan – hua san – 20 banjir besar –  Shanghai china art palace 1120  - AC – Meng Yuan Lo

Taizou Song Founder

Expansion of Kaifen 960 – 980 Pagoda Besi di Bukit Panjang Umur. – festival di sungai 1120 AC the festival on the river Kaifeng  -karakter china – bi seng.  – susong 1020-1101.

Sima guang – Henan university

1100 Emperor Huizong 1082 -1135

The siege of Kaifeng 1127

Qing Zho On the defeat of the nation – Song Retreat 1129

Capital of the southern song 1132 Hang Zhou.

Tieshan 19/03/1279

Lu xiu fu  : the end of song dynasty

Hong Wu Empire 1328 - 1398


Ep.4

#Ming Dynasty abad ke-14 (1368 – 1644); Nanjing / sang pembawa lentera; Zhu Shuan Yang; Hong Wu emperor 1328 – 1398 /Shaoxing / Zhao Village : Fujian / Zhang Dai (Biksu) 1645.

Wang Ren yu (penyair) / Xian (Tang’s City)


Manchu / Qing Dynasty

Kangxi Empire

Quangzhou  / Canton


Note: silk road or silk route




Silk Road, also called Silk Route, ancient trade route, linking China with the West, that carried goods and ideas between the two great civilizations of Rome and China. Silk went westward, and wools, gold, and silver went east. China also received Nestorian Christianity and Buddhism (from India) via the Silk Road.

Originating at Xi’an (Sian), the 4,000-mile (6,400-km) road, actually a caravan tract, followed the Great Wall of China to the northwest, bypassed the Takla Makan Desert, climbed the Pamirs (mountains), crossed Afghanistan, and went on to the Levant; from there the merchandise was shipped across the Mediterranean Sea. Few persons traveled the entire route, and goods were handled in a staggered progression by middlemen.

With the gradual loss of Roman territory in Asia and the rise of Arabian power in the Levant, the Silk Road became increasingly unsafe and untraveled. In the 13th and 14th centuries the route was revived under the Mongols, and at that time the Venetian Marco Polo used it to travel to Cathay (China). It is now widely thought that the route was one of the main ways that plague bacteria responsible for the Black Death pandemic in Europe in the mid-14th century moved westward from Asia.

Part of the Silk Road still exists, in the form of a paved highway connecting Pakistan and the Uygur Autonomous Region of Xinjiang, China. The old road has been the impetus behind a United Nations plan for a trans-Asian highway, and a railway counterpart of the road has been proposed by the UN Economic and Social Commission for Asia and the Pacific (UNESCAP). The road inspired cellist Yo-Yo Ma to found the Silk Road Project in 1999, which explored cultural traditions along its route and beyond as a means for connecting arts worldwide across cultures.


SURFER’S Paradise

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FOR THREE DAYS, Dean Izzi rode the waves off Sorake beach in the North Sumatra regency of Nias Selatan. The Australian surfer enjoyed waves of up to 10 meters.

Dean Izzi said the waves at Sorake were great for surfing, adding that Sorake Beach was a surfers paradise.

“The waves here are far out, extreme and fit very well for surving,” Izzi told The Jakarta Post at Sorake Beach on July 26.

Sorake Beach is located on Nias Island west of the Sumatra mainland, more specifically in the village of Botohilitano in Telu, Dalam district.

The beach face the Indian Ocean, which explains the extreme waves wit hcrests as high as 15 meters. The waves also tend to roll perfectly before breaking at the water’s edge. Sorake Beach’s waves spoil surfers with five levels of height to choose from. Skillful surfers can perform incredible stunts on each level as they ride the waves, which can reach a length of 200 meters.

Once a best-kept secret among surfers, the beach is becoming quite a well-known tourist spot. From April until August, the beach hosts many surfers from various countries.

Social Zagoto, a Sorake community figure, said for five months starting in April Sorake Beach is packed with surfers. Zagoto added that, during that period, the rolls can reach a length of 200 meters.

“That’s what draws the world’s surfers to Sorake Beach,” Sosial told the Post on July 26.

Social also said that, this month, hundreds of surfers, including Macekly from Hawaii, had gathered at the beach to try and tame Sorake’s rolling waves. The surfers usually stay for several days at Sorake Beach, which has some starred hotels.


“The shortest period of stay is one week; some even spend a few months here. They want to really enjoy the beauty of the nature and extreme waves,” said Sosial, who has been accompanying and helping the surfers who come to Sorake Beach.

Social explained that Sorake Beach had several specific characteristics not found at other beaches, namely that the waves don’t rely on the direction of the wind, so surfers can ride the waves to their heart’s content. This, according to Sosial, also makes the beach popular with surfers.



“Many of the wolrd’s top surfers say the waves here are the second-best for surfing after Hawaii,” he said, citing several international competitions that were held at Sorake Beach.

In a matter of weeks, the administration of South Nias, in cooperation with the Tourism Ministry and the World Surf League (WSL), will hold the Surf Qualifying Sereis Nias Pro championship. The event will be held from Aug, 24 to 28 at Sorake Beach.

The head of the South Nias Office of Tourism, Youth and sports, Anggraeni Dachi, said the event was the government’s way to support, introduce and develop tourism at Sorake Beach.



“Our aim is that the international surfers participating in the Surf Qualifying Series will get to appreciate the special characteristics of the waves at Sorake,” said Anggraeni. 

The event offers a total of US$15,000 in prize money and trophies.


The WSL is a professional surfing tour founded in 1976 and dedicates itself to promoting world-class professional surfers. The WSL has its headquarters in LA, USA.

Aggraeni noted that various international serufing events held at Sorake Beach had positively affected the local economy.

“We are grateful that the people’s economy is getting a boost with Sorake Beach drawing in many surfers from many countries,’ said Anggraeni, who added that the regency was reliant of beach tourism.

Aside from Sorake Beach, south Nias regency also has Lagundri Beach. The white-sandy beach is located some 13 kms to the south from Teluk Dalam district. The beach borders directly with Sorake  Beach, and like Sorake Beach, Lagudnri Beach is popular among international surfers, even though the crests are not as high as those at Sorake Beach.

At Lagundri Beach, we’ll see more visitors swimming, sunbathing or snorkeling. The beach of the nhosts attractions like diving and snorkeling activities as the sea off Lagundri Beach is filled with beautiful fish


BINTAN ISLAND A Resort Island Rich in History

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MOST VISITORS would not know it today, but Penyengat Island in the Riau Islands province was once the capital of a Malay Sultanete known as Nusantara. Many people would struggle to locate Riau, which has about 2,000 islands, but the main islands of Batam and Bintan are both located less than an hour by fast ferry south of Singapore in the South China Sea or 90 minutes by plane from Jakarta. interestingly, Bintan is two-and-a-half times bigger than Singapore so Riau is quite a significant regional island group and yet one that is not yet on everyone's travel radar.
After the fall of Melaka in 1511, the Malay regional political power switched to Penyengat Island, which was considered the center of the Johor-Riau Sultanate before the Dutch colonials split it up in 1824. Singapore was then considered part of the Sultanate.
Plans are afoot to give the striking gold and several old cannons and a green Grand Mosque on Pulau Penyengat Bintan adn the adjoining old fort heritage protection. The site is located on Pulau Penyengat just a few minutes boat ride fro mTanjung Pinang and includes a fort with several old cannons and a moat, the Sultan of Riau's Grand Mosque and other heritage buildings.
Many visitors to Bintan head to destinations such as Bintan Resorts on the northern coastline, check into one of several resorts in the special tourism zone and chill out along beautiful palm-fringed beaches. While this is a great way to relax, it is also recommended that visitors hire a vehicle adn take a trip around the island to discover its history and Indonesian culture. Be aware, though, that it is big island and you will scarcely scratch the surface in a day's journey of discovery.

Boatbuildings and Kelongs
Being and island of mostly fisherfolk, seafood is bountiful all over the island. Most visitors will be taken to a small wooden boat building yard and then to one of several kelongs (places where fishermen store their catch) at Trikora on the east coast where the rustic restaurants on stilts over the water keep fresh fish in nets below and haul it up upon request. Seafood such as fish, prawns, squid, crabs and oysters could not be any fresher and it is all very affordable. Restaurant Pantai Trikora is recommended as it offers fresh ocean-caught seafood and a breezy over-the-water ambiance.
Akau Market in Potong Lembu in the capital of Tanjung Pinang is the place to dine on delicious dishes in the open air under the stars. Most of the food is cooked fresh and includes famous dishes like oysters omelette, ikan bakar (grilled fish), nasi goreng (fried rice), ayam penyet (fried chicken) and a local favorite called gong gong (sea snails). The stalls ope nat 5 p.m. and close at midnight.

Wetland Wonderland
Parts of the Bintan coastline and rivers that flow into the ocean are lined with mangrove forests. These can be explored from the safety of small boats, which head upriver to the narrowest reaches of the overhanging forest. Long-tailed macaques and mangrove snakes lurk in the trees and it is possible to see them plus lizards, birds and some fascinating plant life along the way. Skimming fast across the water in a small boat is also an exhilarating experience, while visiting in the early evening to admire the flickering fireflies is a memorable experience.

Resort Living
There are various accommodation options in or near Tanjung Pinang adn resorts along the east coast centered on Trikora.
The finest accommodation is within the Bintan Resorts precinct in the north of the island Bintan Lagoon Resort ia a large property that stretches along a picturesque palm-lined coastline. It has an extensive selection of recreational activities and dining opportunities.
The added bonus here is that golfers can play the Jack Nicklaus Sea View adn ian Baker-Finch Woodlands courses. Both are in immaculate condition and while the landscaping is similar on both courses, they each offer different golf experiences.
The par 72 Nicklaus course of 6,420 meters has wide-open fairways, which encourage golfers to open their shoulders to get some distance on their drive ,but bunkers round the greens make approach shots challenging.
The par 72 Baker-Finch course of 6,211 metes is narrower as it weaves its way through the coastal forest ang golfers need to pay more attention to their game to stay on top of it.
Facilities at the resort and several other properties here, including Club Med and Banyan Tree, ensure Bintan's popularity with Singaporeans. Indonesian visitors can join in the fun here or the sights attractions in other parts of the island.

Travel File

Getting There
There are directy daily flights from Jakarta to Bintan Island on Sriwijaya Air. The alternatives ar to fly to neigboring Batam Island and catch a ferry across or, to fly to Singapore and catch a ferry to Bintan from Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal.


Where to Stay
The Bintan Resorts precinct, or Lagoi, is located on the northern side of the island. Visitors can stay in Luxury seaside accommodation such as the Bintan Lagoon Resort (www.bintanlagoon.com), which
is set in spacious landscaped grounds. It has a comprehensive range of services adn facilities. In additionto an expansive beachfront, there are many food and beverage outlets, watersports, pools and two championship golf courses. In Trikora, stay at the Trikora club and resort (www.trikorabeachclub.com) while on the outskirts of Tanjung Pinang, the Pelangi Hotel and Resort (www.pelangihotel.com) offers resort living near the main town.

LAKE TOBA Pearl of North Sumatra

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THE EXPANSIVE BLUE that is Lake Toba, located in the midst of mountains, is an aweinspiring spectacle for all who visit it. They are mesmerized by the exotic view of the lake.

The lake has an area of 1,130 square kilometers and is not only the largest lake in Southeast Asia but also the world’s largest volcanic lake. The beautiful panorama makes the lake, which is located in seven regencies and towns, a favorite among local and international tourists. Zulkifli Fahmi, 42, a local visitor from Dairi, said he and his family visited Lake Toba almost every month. The teacher was full of praise for the lake’s beauty.

“It’s soothes the mind to see the beautiful lake; it gives me comfort,” Zulkifli told the Jakarta Post at Taman Simalem Resort, which offers views of the hills and mountains surrounding Lake Toba in Karo regency, on July 15.

Tourism Minister praised Lake Toba, saying it had a temperate climate, was highly popular and admirable. Arief said the government had designated Lake Toba as one of the tourist mainstays because of it strong allure.

“Lake Toba has a beautiful nature and an interesting history, especially on how it was formed as the result of a massive volcano eruption thousands of years ago that created this caldera. The nature itself is already a strong draw,” Arief said during a working visit to Medan.

Arief added that the culture of the Lake Toba area was also rich and had a strong character. Like culture-rich Bali, the Toba area has a deeply rooted Batak culture.

“That is another strength that Toba has. So, we want to empower this culture so that it becomes stronger and can lure more tourists to Lake Toba,” said Arief, stating that Lake Toba had tourist spots that had the potential to compete, with those in other regions.

The Tourism Ministry has released the Top10 list of tourist sites around Lake Toba. They are:


Tomok

Tomok is a traditional village acting as a gateway to Samosir Island. It is here that the large sarcophagus of king Sidabutar can be found. Tomok has long been a tourist village on Samosir. There are three interesting tourist attractions in TOmok village, the Sigale-Gale statue, the burial ground of former Batak kings and the Batak Museum.

Holbung Hill (Teletubies Hill)

Holbung Hill is in janji Marhatan village in Samosir regency. The hill is also known as Teletubies Hill. Many international tourists visit the hill to go trekking. The top of the hill can be reached in 10 to 15 minutes and offers an enthralling view of Lake Toba.

Situmurun Waterfall, Binangalom

Situmurun Waterfall is also known as Binangalom Waterfall because the watger flows from Binangalom village in lumban Julu district, toba Samosir regency.

The waterfall is special as the waterfalls directly into Lake Toba. The sensation of swimming against the current can be experienced at the waterfall.

Iman Sitinjo Tourist Park

Iman Sitinjo tourist park is located in the hills of Stinjo district, Dairi regency. The place combines the concepts of religious tourism and nature tourism. Aside from showcasing several spots of officially recognized places of worship, the place offers a beautiful panorama of the lake.

Beautiful Simarjarunjung Hill

As the name suggests, the hill, which is situated on Jl. Simarjunjung, a road crossing from Parapatto Merek, Karo regency, offers natural beauty. It offers a vantage point to view the lake.

Simarjarungjung Hill is managed in the same way as Kalibiru in Yogyagkarta, complete with tree house.

Paropo Beach.

Paropo is a village on the shores of Lake Toba. Besides being a popular camping area, the village, which is situated in Silahi Sabungan district, Dairi regency, is ideal for fishing.

Taman Labirin, Taman Simalem Resort

Taman Labirin is a mainstay of Taman Simalem Resort in karo district. The tourist destination offers a challenge to visitors to find their way out of a 500-square-meter labyrinth.

From here tourists can also visit the pearl of Lake Toba and enjoy the lake’s panorama from an elevation of 500 meters, a truly instagrammable spot.

Huta Ginjang

Huta Ginjang is located in Muara district, North Tapanuli. The place can be reached in 15 minutes from Silangit Airport, Huta Ginjang is situated on a highland. From here, visitor have a beautiful view of Lake Toba.

Most people visit Huta Ginjang Hill either in the morning to catch the sunrise or in the afternoon for sunset. The place also has a pine forest and is popular for paragliding.

Sipinsur Park

Sipinsur is an ideal location for relaxation. Visitors can feel their exhaustion and stress ebbing away when they spend time in the park. Sipinsur Park is situated in Paerung village, Humbang Hasundutan. Here, visitors can stroll amid pine trees and enjoy the invigorating breeze.

Lae Mbilulu Waterfall

Lae Mbilulu Waterfall, located in Pakpak Bharat regency, has an elevation of around 40 meters, its pool a depth of 5 meters and an area of 60 square meters. To the right and the left is enchanting greenery surrounding pristine water.

Of the 10 tourist destinations around Lake Toba, Taman Simalem Resort is the only one to have won a 2017 Indonesian Sustainable Tourism Award (ISTA) in the environmental preservation category from the Tourism Ministry.


Taman Simalem Resort general manager Eddy Tanoto said the national level award was the first one it received from the Tourism Ministry since the establishment was opened in 2008.

Eddy expressed pride in the achievement because the 200-ha agriculture and eco-themed resort was the only one in North Sumatra to have won second place in the environmental preservation category.

“We won the award thanks to the support from the community and the governments of Karo gegency and North Sumatra province,” Eddy stated.

A tourism player, Tandeanus Sukardi from Erni Tour, praised the development of tourism at Lake Toba over the last few years. Tandeanus likened Lake toba to a shining pearl. Tandeanus said many international tourists visited the lake and enthused about their experience.

“I often take groups of international tourists to Lake Toba, especially to Taman Smalem Resort,” said Tandeanus, adding many of the tourists hailed from Singapore, Malaysia and European countries. [Sources from the Jakarta Post, August 2018|words by: Apriadi Gunawa]



GENDENG VILLAGE Center of Wayang Kulit

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FOR LOVERS AND COLLECTORS of wayang kulit (leather puppets), Gendeng village in Bangunjiwo yakarta, it is where tens of artisans ;prodsubdistrict, Kasihan district, Bantu regency, Yogyakarta, is well known.

Located some seven kilometers southwest of downtown Yogyakarta, it is where tens of artisans produce Yogyakarta style wayang kulit of high quality.

It is therefore not surprising to learn that the village is not just well known among wayang kulit lovers and collectors, but also among noted puppeteers such as Ki Timbul Hadiprayitno and Ki Hadi Sugito, said to have puppets made in Gendeng in their wayang kulitcollections for show purposes.

“We prioritize quality. As for myself, It’s not just a matter of generating revenue but more importantly a desire to preserve leather puppets,” said local artisan Sagio, 67, the owner of a puppet handicraft workshop.

The history of Gendeng as a center of wayang kulit production started back in 1925 when a newcomer named Bundu came to the village and introduced puppetry, including how to make wayang kulit, to the local villagers.he later had a pupil named Walijo, also known as Atmo Sukarto, or more commonly, Pujo. It was Pujo who then introduced the puppet handicraft industry to the village in the 1930s.

Gendeng gained its golden years a puppet production center especially during the rule of Indonesia’s second president Soeharto, who was also known as a wayangkulit show lover.

“I was once sent to Japan to promote wayang kulit there,” said Sagio, adding that he spent a year there from 1969 to 1970 for the purpose.

Ever since, he said, he was frequently sent to other countries for the same reason. Sometimes he even visited a country more than once. Among the countries he visited were the Netherlands, France, England, Hungary, New Zealand, the Unites State, India, china, Thailand and Singapore.

Sagio himself said he started learning about puppet making when he was 11 years of age. He said he first learned from Pujo, then directly learned it from Bundu. When Bundu passed away. Sagio frequently went to the Yogyakarta Palace to have a closer look at the palace’s wayang kulit collection to learn about their fine and high quality.

This accounts for why Sagio is well known as an artisan specializing in fine and high quality wayang kulit in the Yogyakarta style, although he is also capable of making puppets in the Surakarta style.

Workshops

He said he initially also learned puppetry and was once a puppeteer but he finally decided to focus on puppet making because he realized that no formal institution for puppet making was available.

“There were schools for puppeteers, but none for puppet makers, that is even still the case now,” he said.

Gendeng’s glow as a center of wayang kulit production faded away following Soeharto’s fall in 1998, leaving only about 50 artisans in the village.

Wayang kulit handicraft showrooms and workshops are mostly centered in the area around the subdistrict hall, as the hall is also located in Gendeng. Among the well-known workshops ar those of Sukono, SAntoso, Sabarno and Suprih.

“Many of them were previously my apprentices and now they have their own workshops,” said Sagio.

He added that he previously took on apprentices to be trained as wayang kulit artisans in his workshop, but he has not done so since 1998. Nowadays he only receives groups of students or tourists to experience puppet making at his workshop. Some stay for up to a week, others just for three to four hours.

Other workshops in the village also do the same. Apart from selling puppet products at different prices depending on their quality level and size, they also offer puppet making experiences.

“There are always tourists coming to the village to enjoy the experience,” said Sagio, adding that some 75% of the tourists visiting Gendeng were foreigners.

He said an average of 20 foreign tourists visited his workshop every moth, giving him a monthly revenue of about IDR 20 million.

Products on offer in the workshops include puppets of the standard size for both collections and souvenirs, puppets of bigger and even huge sizes for decoration, puppets of smaller sizes for bookmarks or wedding souvenirs, and puppet key-rings.

In the village, tourists can also see the process of turning animal leather into parchments. For this they can go to Suyoto’s.

“I need at least three days to get this leather ready,” said Suyoto, 57, while currying a sheet of buffalo leather spread on a structure to be turned into parchment.

The process starts by submerging sun-dried buffalo leather overnight in a nearby river to soften it, then spreading it the following morning on a structure to dry and curry.

“The best leather for making puppets is buffalo,” said Suyoto, whose workshop is located some 100 meters to the east of Sagio’s.

To get to the village, visitors have to take a taxi or private vehicle, as no public transportation heading to Gendeng is available. However, it is just a stone’s throw from the renowned ceramic handicraft production center, Kasongan. Both Kasongan and Gendeng are under the same jurisdiction of Bangunjiwo district administration.

In fact, both are part of the subdistrict’s leading toruism and industrial package called KAJIGELEM, an abbreviation of Kasongan, Jipangan, Gendeng and Lemahdadi.

Jipangan is a bambbo handicraft production center while Lemahdadi is a stone statue production center. [Sources from the Jakarta Post, August 2018|words by: Sri Wahyuni]



Sailing Smoothly with Richard Mille

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The Caribbean Sea, Luxury Swiss brand Richard Mille supported the annual Les Voiles des Saint Barth sailing tournament – organized for the ninth time this year – in the Caribbean Sea in April. The brand also created a specially designed trophy for the tournament’s winners.

Participants took pride in taking part in the tournament, which comprised 53 crews in seven different classes, showing their solidarity with their fellow sailors despite logistical difficulties. They also did this in honor of the people who survived Hurricane Irma in August last year.

The designer of the eponymous brand said he had placed his trust in the participants’ endurance in taking on the Les Voiles de Saint Barth, which embodied the triumph of the human spirit. The event was launched in 2010.

“Now that the event has reached maturity, it has become a major event in the Caribbean. We want to maintain its world-class reputation to make it more attractive. Therefore, we are strengthening our participation in solidarity with the organizers. Helping to create a successful event is a source of a great shared pride, which builds true camaraderie,” Richard Mile said.

Basking in Chungnam-Do’s Natural Beauty

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Chungcheongnam-Do, or Chungnam-Do, is south Korean province, which is located not far from the capital city of Seoul, that features beautiful natural vistas. In order to get more Indonesian tourist to visit the province’s pristine locations, the Korean Tourism Organization (KTO) Indonesia recently hosted a dinner for several travel agents to help promote it more effectively.

The dinner was held on July 31. Hopefully, the KTO and travel agents will offer packages to encourage more Indonesians to visit the province. On your way there, you can experience South Korea’s KTX bullet train, which will take you from Incheon International Airport to the beautiful province within 40 minutes.

Once arrive there, enjoy Chungnam-do’s beautiful beach, which will provide you with excellent sunset scenes. After that, visit Taeanhaean National Marine Park, the Baegmagang River and more. Also take delight in the province’s summer mud festival and warm water fountains.

Then take time to visit the province’s Baekje historical site that comprises ancient gates, graveyards and relics, which was designated by UNESCO as a world heritage site in 2015.

This year, the Magok temple in Gongju city was also designated as a UNESCO world heritage site.




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