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Browse Kabul's Hall

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Executive summary by darmansjah

INSPIREDthe movieKite Runner, I was movedto visit thehighlands ofcentralAfghanistan. ThereareBamyanCityat an altitude of2,800 meters, which is part ofthe cluster ofthe Hindu Kush mountains. Because ofitsgeographical position, the city experiencedduringthe sixmonths ofwinterwith temperaturesup tominus20 degrees.Bamyanwas builtin the earlydevelopment of theteaching ofthe Hindu Kush. Because ofits unique geographical location, the city experiencedduringthe wintermonthswith a temperature ofminussixto 20C.Bamyanwas builtin the earlydevelopment ofHinduism and Buddhism. This placestill leaves thehistorical evidencein the form ofcarvedBuddhastatuesand caveswheremonkslivedon thewall ofa cliff overlooking thecityBanyambuilt inthe 5th century. Bamyanis nowa cultural centerHazaratribe.


While inBamyan, IaccompaniedAnwareverydayusewhiteShalwarkameez, a traditionaloutfitthat is commonly foundin thecentral and southernAsia. Shalwaristhesectionwidthpantstieditwith a ropeand tapersat the ankle. Whilekameezis the dressthat coversthe upper partof the shoulderto justabove theknee, long sleevedand therepartsin additiontothe waist.

With aphysiquebodythat is not toohigh, notbearded, smallnoseandslanted eyeslikethoseof EastAsiain general, my appearancelooksstark contrast compared toadult malePashtuns,the ethnic majorityin this country. Hazaraarea minoritytribethat has long beenisolatedinthe Central Highlands, known as Hazarajat.They come fromthe lineageof the MongolswhoenteredAfghanistan inthe 13th centurybrought about byGengisKhanand his troopsduringthe Mongol invasion. Hazaratribehas longbeen regardedas outsidersorsecond classandjust livingfrom the professionor occupationof the lower classesdo notinterestother tribesin Afghanistan. Generally  hazara tribe  adheres toShiah Islam who liveamongst the peoplewho embraceSunniIslam. It maylookdifferentface andideologymakeHazarasuffereda darkhistoryin the past.

My heart was pricked when I heard Anwar narrative about the life of the Hazara tribe during Taliban rule. Pashtun tribe called  Tajik tribe as Tajikistan, Uzbeks and Hazaras as Uzbekhistan and Goristan, which means grave. Hazara tribal settlements were destroyed, their homes burned, thousandsofthemwere killedandthe survivorsinto slavery, theydid nothave thesame opportunitiesforformal educationand workin theareas of government.

A darkpastthathas passedthroughthe spirit ofthe Hazaratribesurvivethe nextfewgenerations. Underthe current administration, Hazaratribehave equal opportunitiesin educationandmakethem verycompetitivein theworld of work.

BuddhasofBamyanmyhead. Placethestatus ofWorld Heritage Sitesof UNESCO's most visitedcaravantraderswhocrossedfromAsiaand Europetradelanegoldsilk.Bamyanis partof theBuddhistKushanempire. That is why, not surprisingly,there are threecarvedstatues ofBuddhaand severalcavesusedas a shelterthe monksin one ofthe cliff overlookingthe citywhich was built inthe 6th century. Now theonly remainingplacestanding Buddha statueniches. Talibanblowrulingin March 2001. The reason ispolytheistic. Of course, this is veryunfortunate becausethe statuethat has beena silent witness tothe triumphof thesilkline. Thatpassage of timethat we cansee here.

LandAfgan

SIGNLICENSE, required visasforforeignpedestrianscouldbeatthe embassyof Afghanistan, located in the cityandlive. At a cost ofU.S.$ 30. InKabulthere are alsoembassiescountries inthe world, andwhenyou shouldarrivethereto report tothe office.The process ofgettinga visaabout oneweekandwill be easierwhenequipped with aletter ofinvitationfrom thepeoplewho are inAfghanistan.

CLIMATEcountryhas fourseasons, dryheat, cold(temperatures of minus 20C), fall andspring.The best timewhen the temperatureis not toohot. The flightwas not toooften turnslikein winter. The worst timewhen there ispolitical activitysuch as electionsandmid-September (usually proneterrorism).

THEREhas beena lot ofairlinesto fly toKabul, the most convenientflights fromSingaporecan throughNewDelhi (www.airindia.com) orDubai(www.flydubai.com) or alocalairline(safiairways.aero). Whiletransportation in the cityis verydifficult given thepublic transportvehiclesare notequipped with anumberor aspecial markof originand destinationfreight. Hirea taxi totown: www.afghanlogisticstours.com

ACCOMMODATIONavailablein the city ofKabulandBamyan, like aluxury hotelSarena(http://www.serenahotels.com/ serenakabul /default-en.html). Houseof the largestin thecity center (about $ 50andcan be negotiabledown to$ 35) or abudgetinnMustafaHotel(http://www.southtravels.com/ asia / afghanistan / mustafa / index.html). InBamyancould trySilkRoadHotel (www.silkroadbamyan.com).
OFFICIALLANGUAGEofwhichare similar tothose used inPersianIran. Tourism informationthroughhttp://www.kabulguide.netorBamyaninwww.bamyantoursim.org



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