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The Taste

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Something to Squawk About

Executive summary by darmansjah

GONE ARE THE DAYSof farmers carting tobacco leaves to auction in downtown Durham, North Carolina. In their place, city dwellers tend to backyard chicken coops in Raleigh n deliver foraged figs, persimmons, and pawpaws to be infused into craft beer at Durham’s Fullsteam Brwewery. “People come in with buckets or bags full of fruit,” says fullsteam founder Sean Wilson, who has earned a James Beard nod as well as advanced degrees from Duke University. He’s part of the Research Triangle’s new crop-highly educated farmers, chefs, and small-business owners-to sprout as much of the area’s tobacco industry goes up in smoke. 
Chapel Hill’s Top of the Hill Distileery makes whiskey using organic grain fro nearby fields, while Raleigh City Farm grows veggies next to locavore Market Restaurant. Spring bring out curious neighbors. On the 40-stop Piedmont Farm Tour, visitors admire goats and “egg-mobiles” (coops on wheels); during Tour D’Coop, red-wattled Dominique hens for the public behind historic Raleigh bungalows.

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