Executive summary by darmansjah
These bite-sized morsels-the Venetian answer to tapas and the perfect accompaniment to an afternoon spent lost among the canals-can be found in tiny bars all over the city. Cicchetti comprise a range of hot and cold foods. The term derives from the Latin word ciccus, meaning ‘very small’, and can include everything from olives to diminutive servings of seafood, meat or vegetables placed on top of a slice of bread.
Origin – during the 15th century, Venice was not only the wealthiest and most powerful city in Europe, it was also considered to be the capital of fine dinning, attracting the world’s most talented chefs. Venice’s influence-and merchants-brought a diversity of foods to the many bars that had long line its side streets and plazas, and the worker’s tradition of a quick, small sandwich with glass of wine continues today.
Tasting – Just approach the counter and point at whichever food looks most appealing. Fish is a Venetian staple, so you’ll often find fried shrimp or calamari, as well as other specialities including fres oysters, razor clams, baccala mantecato (cod wihipped with olive oil), sarde in saor (sardines marinated in vinegar with onions) with polenta cakes, and mushrooms on a baguette slice. Other tiny treats include polpette (a fried veal-and-potato meatball), arancini (tiny fried or baked rice balls). Courgette flowers and baby cotopus. To locate an authentic cicchetti bar, keep an eye out for an unassuming sotefront with locals spilling from the door.
Finding it – the dimly lit Canina do Mori near Riatlto market is Venice’s oldest cicchetti bar, dating back to 1462 (from US$ 2.40; 00 39 41 522 5401).