Quantcast
Channel: Traveler Guide
Viewing all articles
Browse latest Browse all 1406

Heart Shikoku

$
0
0
HeartShikoku

Far from the bustle of Tokyo, Shikoku Island offers wisdom traditions and hospitality unique to Japan, text by Don George, pictures taken from Google, executive summary by darmansjah

I sat on the steps of a 300 year old wooden house in the
Iya Valley, Japan, as he watched the verdant expanse of mountains packed cedar trees. Morning mist coiled creeping valley. There was no other than the house. The only sound that caught the sense of hearing is the rest of the rain early this morning dripping of twigs and a roof made of straw. Vague smell of charcoal hearth rest overnight. The atmosphere is depicted here is like a monastery in the 17th century.

"Incredible, is not it?" Chirps Paul Cato, expats and manager of this village-style inn. "Quite often when waking in the morning, I was amazed at the era of when."
We are located at Chiiori, house owned Alex Kerr, an American writer's. In the 1970's, while still a student in Tokyo, he explored the Iya Valleyand found this house that makes it fall in love. He bought it as an effort to preserve the tradition.

Iya Valley being in the cluster of mountains of Shikoku, the smallest island of the four main islands of Japan, is flanked on the west side of the island of Kyushu and Honshu main island, separated the Seto Inland Sea in the north and the Pacific Ocean on the south side.

MY LOVE TO Shikoku also in the 1970's, when visited with a lover, Kuniko. We are a long way from the campus in Tokyo to meet his family who live on this island. This trip opened my eyes about Japan that I never knew: Rural farming and fishing villages, places of worship and temples in the mountains by the sea, coral beaches and forested valley, tradition and hospitality unique to Japan. Thirty-two years later, I returned with Kuniko to celebrate the anniversary to commemorate the 28th as well as a special place that ever existed. Kuniko while mingle with his family at home, I did a solo trip tracing the winding path to find the other side of Japan.

Kuniko hometown, Johen, it is wonderful. Located on the southwest side of Shikoku and inhabited by about 9000 people. Shikoku tooi Inaka still considered rural, even though the main island. There are many well-known destinations and Kochi Matsuyama palace relics of the 17th century, the park Ritsurin Koen in Takamatsu, and spa Dogo Onsen in Matsuyama. For most Japanese people, Shikokuimpliesmystery, althoughaccess tothisislandalreadyqualified,with the construction ofthreebridgeslinkingShikokuwithHonshu(first opened in 1988). As forforeignerswho rarelyvisitremote areas, Shikokuscratchthedeepersense of mystery.

Kuniko parents house flanked by ditches and streams. When I tried to turn on the narrow road, the car rear wheel slipping ditch. That was the beginning of my meeting with the prospective in-laws. I asked for his help to move the car out of the ditch. Mother Kuniko. Obaachan recalled the incident 32 years later, when the whole family gathered on the porch celebrate cheerful September. "Don-san, stay away from the ditch," he called in Japanese made ​​me spontaneously shifted.

ImarvelofCapeAshizuriatthe southern tip island. Last night, Iasked theparents andtwosistersKunikowhere theheart ofShikoku. Kuniko's eldest brother, Nobuhisa, proposedCapeAshizuri, the same placehe showedon my first visit. "Make sure that taking this path," he said, tracingagraffitiwithchopsticks."For me, itis a great waytoseewhat werefer to asaoi Shikokukuni: 'blue cityShikoku.' Blue sky, bluemountains, fieldsblue, bluesea." Rice blue? He realizedthe confusionon my face. "In Japan, first,aoimeansblueandblue-green."

After severalhours of drivingacrossa row ofgreen trees, I stoppedin a villagewhere there areabout twodozenwoodenhouses. Summer airstill felt.

"Wow!" Said grandmother behind the bakery counter. "Foreign guests!" He was about 1.5 meters tall and dressed in traditional regional dress blue shorts and Kasuri (made ​​with patterned fabric dye techniques) are white. Her tanned and full of wrinkles seemed happy.

I asked him if he was born and raised in the village. "Oh, yes, I was born and lived here all my life." He counted on his fingers. "Seven decade."

Ever think of staying anywhere else?

"Oh, no!" She retorted quickly. "Why would I live anywhere else?"

What about theyoung people, I asked,do theystay here? "Ah, young man,"hesighed, "theydo not thinkmuch can be donehere, so they went toNagoyaorKobe. They prefer tolivein the city.But Ilovelivinghere: peaceful andclose tonature.I have no reasonto leave this place. "

When Ihandedthe cointo pay forthe coffeecans, she refused. "I am honored that the arrival offoreign guests,"he said. "Thankyou for visitingShikoku. Have a nice trip! "

Arriving at the tip of CapeAshizuri, standing right where Kuniko, Nobuhisa, and I've stood 32 years ago. I stared at the white lighthouse, coastal cliffs, cedar trees covered mountains. I called Kuniko and preach this beautiful panorama. Over the years, images of this place is embedded in my heart and mind-offering the widest charm of authenticity, peace, purity, and a panorama that will never be found in any urban area in Japan.

"Yes," said Kuniko, as if he already knew, "that's why I married you. Shi has opened your hearts and minds, and there is no other place in Japan were able to do it. "

I spent the night at the inn that serves a panoramic expanse of rice fields, mountains, and one of the longest sandy beaches in Japan pith. "Welcome to the Lodge Kaiyu" Mistu Ohkada, the innkeeper greeted in English when I entered the lobby. He started the business after working at an inn standard international hotel in
Bali. "I enjoy the tranquility here-and of course natural. Do you know about aoi kuniShikoku? "Yes, I know.

The next day, I hiked up the slopes of the green valleys and steep yes. Looks countryside in the mountains, farmers were plowing a field. Dusk until my arrival in Chiiori,renovated village house into an inn. Kuniko sister, Fumiyaki, insisted I should stay here.

Chiiorihave material wood and thatched roofs, like the village described in Japanese books.

"Irasshaimase! Welcome! "Paul Cato, manager of American origin, say hello while sliding doors made ​​of wood inn. The interior of the inn looks airy and beautiful, 12 meters long and six meters wide, polished wooden floors, thick timber, paper lanterns, paper and curtains. Set foot in the doorway like a lodge foot into the past.

"True," said Cato. "Chiioriindeed ancient house is 300 years old. Author Alex Kerr fell in love with architecture and traditional Japanese aesthetics. He restored the house resembles a farmhouse Iyathree centuries ago.
"Not only is the architecture: also a way of life. Look it up, "said Cato. On the palate, I see black beams. "First," he explained, "tobacco was the main crop. Due to the humid climate, farmers hang tobacco leaves on the blocks, and dried using smoke fireplace. They are skilled in a different way. "He raised piece of wood on the floor and showed a pile of potatoes stored. "Alex liked the custom of the ancient farmers and tranquility Iya, once defend it. Many volunteers from Japan and foreign countries live here, farming, maintain farmer's house, as well as local farmers to teach traditional techniques. Iyareally a piece of classical Japanese. "

One characteristic ofmodernChiioriWi-Fi isextra fast, andIsawan e-mail fromKuniko. "We follow the journey," he wrote. "How is Iya andChiiori? Fumiyakisay, this isthe quietestplaceinShikoku.



 
 Atdusk, I andCatocutonceboiledturnips, onions, cucumbers, carrots, potatoes, and squashfromourChiiorigardentoeat  near thefireplace. Afterwards, saylay down onthe futon(mattress, bed traditionalJapanese) thick underthe 300 year oldwoodenbeamsand25-year-old hay. I wastyping an e-mail toKuniko: "Convey mythankstotherecommendationthatFumiakitopnotch. Staying heremakes meunderstand the relationshipbetween natureand man. "


Viewing all articles
Browse latest Browse all 1406

Trending Articles