THE NEXT DAY, I arrived at Okuiya Niju Kazurabashi, or the twin bridges. I walked down a hundred steps to the bridge are still visible spectral-tangle of vines stretching over the river rapids. Local residents believe the bridge is higher and long known as the man, and the lower bridges and short are known as women. Floatingfog, blurring the panorama of hills and surrounding areas.
Of all presented in the Iya Valley-mountains, temples and hot springs-this is the place I visited as recommended mandatory Fumiaki. "The bridge was reportedly built by the Clan Heikie in the 12th century, when they fled from Kyoto after losing the civil war to the Genji clan," he said. "Heike live in the interior mountains, and they built this bridge for protection. This Shikoku relics of the past. "
A gust of wind shook the bridge, the rain made the slippery wooden boards. Giddy, I set foot on a wooden board first. I regret using the sandals, not proper footwear. I stepped up and took a deep breath, step foot next to a wooden board. Hap!
I slip up, sat down, and my feet wedged between the wooden planks. I tried to pull it out, and the rough tangle of vines hurt my feet. Suddenly everything seemed so close: Wood, fog, spirits of the Heike warriors.
"Yeah residents still believe the gods lived in the mountains," Fumiyaki once said to me, and now I understand why. I seemed to hear them giggling from behind the trees.
Finally I managed to get away from the tongs wooden planks and vines. This time, I was extra cautious step and both hands clinging to the rod of the bridge. Focus, focus. I walked slowly, swaying and creaking bridge. After 10 minutes of heart is pounding, I reached across and spontaneous jumping for joy. I imagine Fumiyaki and pray to the god of the mountain.
Zentsujiis the cradle ofBuddhist andleadersKoboDaishi, who builtthistemplein the earlyninth century. ItisrecommendedKunikofather, Ojiichan. "To understand Shikoku," said Ojiichan, andpilgrim-o-henro-san-walking fromtempleto templeforvirtueandchastity. As a child, every time thepilgrimsapproached thehouse wewill hear the soundof thebellsting-ting-and they bringmomtold me tobringriceand orangesforthem. Therefore, wecordially welcomethe strangerinShikoku.
"Of course," said his daughter, "It's onlythe fourthround. O-henro-sanover there"- he pointed toanelderlymanwearingblack clothesandcolorfulbelts-"he made rounds to 333! "
I am sure, the pilgrimsthankful forShikoku. They walkedslowlyinhumility, remindingus not tomake a fuss andcommit toa higherspiritualpurpose. I realizedthe truth ofthe wordsOjiichantraditionhospitalityand kindnessof the island.
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I circled the island for two days, to feel the texture of old hay and straw-clay material village house, lounging in a quiet fishing village, bow pilgrims pay homage to the people I have met. In hot water spa, a half-dozen middle-aged women were friendly, forced to pay my dinner. When I got lost in the intersection, the truck driver was kind enough to drive me. At a roadside snack stall, the owner asked me if I was on a pilgrimage, and when I said no and claimed to have been looking for the heart of Shikoku , he exclaimed, "Then you are also a pilgrim!" And presented me with strawberry shaved ice.
In the afternoon, on the fifth day, I arrived at Johen. Family Kuniko was awaiting my arrival. We enjoyed dining Katsuo sashimi (fresh raw fish meat) and grilled fish, as well as mushrooms, tomatoes, cucumbers fresh from the garden.
While sitting on tatami mats around a low table, Obaachan look with sparkling eyes. "All right," he said, "the success you find Shikoku heart?"
"Of course," I replied, and all eyes looked at me expectantly. "But I do not only find it in one place. I found it on lading agriculture, fishing village, also on the pilgrims who would not stop to give thanks for the gifts of the day. And again I found it on the people around were greeted with enthusiasm and friendliness. "
For a moment, I was not sure Kuniko family understand my words in Japanese just were not at all fluent. But then they nodded and smiled.
Ojiichan poured beer for us all and raises his glass. "Don-san, glad you are finally back home. Kanpai!"
Together we sipped drinks, thenobaachanraised his glassagain."And this time I'm glad you're not stuck in the ditch again!"